Download and print this model Toyota engine and transmission

Download and print this model Toyota engine and transmission

Who wouldnt want a 3D-printed Toyota 22RE inline-four and W56 transmission?

Ever since3D printingbroke into the mainstream, its become possible not only to download and make reproductions of small parts for your car (hopefully nothing crucial that will encounter a lot of heat or friction), but also to download, print and assemble miniatures of entire powertrains.

MakerBots Thingiverse website has thousands of items 3D printer owners can download and print out using plastic filament on a variety of printers — the 3D files can work with several different 3D modeling software programs and printers.

ConsiderThingiverse item number 713815– a working W56 five-speed transmission for aToyota22RE engine, a 2.4-liter 8-valve SOHC inline-four that was in production from 1981 through 1997 and that was used in vehicles like the 4Runner, Hilux, Celica and Corona. Thingiverse user Eric Harrell reverse-engineered this working five-speed transmission to approximately 1:3 scale.

This is the 4WD version of the transmission so it has a mounting surface to bolt a transfer case to, Harrell says. Ill work to get a 2wd housing designed up, since the only difference is the rear section of the transmission.

Oh, and theres a 3D model of the engine itself,available for download as Thingiverse item number 644933. No, it doesnt run on gasoline like other model engines weve recently watched — the fuel would make a quick meal of that plastic.

This model was reverse engineered from a 22RE Toyota engine, all modeling was done in SolidWorks and the STL files were scaled to 35% for printing since that was the biggest my printer could print, Harrell writes. All parts were printed in PLA on my RepRap original Prusa. There are 80 printed parts in this assembly, not including any fasteners or bearings. Probably a whole 1kg roll of plastic. The model can be built in different stages, if you only want the short block then only print those parts. The head is completely removable so you can see the pistons moving and also the valves opening and closing. The oil pan is attached with magnets so you can take it off and see the crankshaft moving.

The 3D model engines creator cautions that this is not an easy or quick item to build. So if you try this one, youll need to stock up on filament.

Building an engine from scratch in 1:1 scale is difficult enough and requires more precision tools that are available to the average hobbyist. Now imagine what it takes to build a moving, functional …

Total print time of the block at 35 percent scale of the original was just over 34 hours, Harrell says. Just the head print time was 20 hours. Make sure you have a well calibrated and robust machine if you want to print this. Its definitely is a challenge for you and your printer.

Now, if we only had enough filament to 3D print a 1:3 scale Toyota Hilux pickup…

Jay Ramey- Jay Ramey is an Associate Editor with Autoweek, and has been with the magazine since 2013. Jay also likes to kayak and bike.

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How-To 3D Print a Video Game Figurine

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How-To: 3D Print a Video Game Figurine

Jennyis a gamer and a 3D printing enthusiast

Creating figurines of your favorite video games characters can be easy. The in-game models usually have low polygon count, come fully textured, and are ripe for full-color 3D printing. A lot of 3D printing services such as Shapeways and Sculpteo offer the full-color 3D print service. All you have to do is package the files correctly.

For my examples, I used the Faceless Void hero from DOTA2 by Valve. Valve is exceptional in that they provide easy access to the character model files. Other games might be a little trickier figuring out how to unpack the appropriate game files.

Download your favorite Hero fromValves DOTA2 workshop. Heroes that would not be too good for printing are those with thin components (like, Death Prophets trailing scarf) or those with clearalpha-mappedareas (like, Naga Sirens earlobes). Thin components are not printable, unless manually scaled up. The alpha-mapped areas will just print black. My Faceless Void actually has a bit of alpha-mapped areas on the bottom of his loin cloth, but I figured hed be ok.

To get everything ready for upload to a printing service, the model needs to be packaged in a zip file. For Sculpteo, the model needs to be in an OBJ format, along with a MTL file, and the texture files. The OBJ will dictate the 3D shape of the model. It can be used by itself to print. The textures (Valve provides them as TGA files) will dictate the colors of the model. The MTL file will tell Sculpteo what parts are colored what. For Shapeways, the model needs to be in a VRML format, with the textures converted into JPGs or PNGs.

After downloading the Hero and unzipping the model files, therell be two folders. One is materialsrc, which will contain the materials. The other is models, which will contain the 3D models. Go into the materialsrc, and find _color TGAs for each component. Copy those files to a new folder. These will be the color of the printed Hero.

To get the OBJ and MTL files, open up a 3D modelling software. I used3D Studios Max 2013.If Valve provides an OBJ, its not really possible to use it since the MTL files produced will be incorrect (the texture mappings are wrong). Instead, find the fbx files in the models folder. Each fbx file will contain a component of the Hero.

For each one of those fbx files, select the solid-looking mesh and export the selected as an OBJ. The wire structures are bones, used for animating the Hero, and can be ignored. Create a new scene after each export to clear the screen.

Once all the components are exported as an OBJ, import all of the OBJs into a single scene. They should be all positioned correctly to form the hero.

Press M to texture the hero. Click on a white sphere, and click on the box next to Diffuse. This will bring up the Material/Map Browser. Clicking on Bitmap, and browse for one of the TGA textures. Drag and drop that texture on to the corresponding component to color the Hero. Hopefully all the mapping are correct and the Hero will look like it popped right out of DOTA2.

Sometimes the mapping isnt correct and its a pain to fix (like Faceless Voids mace).

Once everything is texture, select the components you want to print and export them as an OBJ. Make sure Export materials and Create mat-library is checked. Click the Map-Export button and it will tell you where the final MTL file will be created.

Gather the final OBJ, the MTL, and the TGAs into a zip file and upload onto Sculpteo, if you are using Sculpteo. Sculpteo is super nice in that it allows you to scale, and gives you a price quote. Be sure to check for solidity, which will tell you what areas are too thin / easy to break. When youre ready, choose multicolor as the material, select your size, and add to cart.

Check the final print size of the figurine, by importing it intonetfabb. Since Shapeways does not allow for scaling adjustments on their website, you have to make sure your objects are the correct size before you upload. Scale your object in 3D Studios Max instead of netfabb because netfabb doesnt handle texture coordinates.

Convert your textures into PNGs or JPGs since Shapeways doesnt handle TGAs. Re-texture your now-scaled mesh (same as Step 7) with the PNGs/JPGs, and export it as a VRML.

Zip the VRML and the corrected textures and upload to Shapeways. When youre ready, choose sandstone as the material, and add to cart.

The original version of this post was published on Jennyspersonal blog.

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Japanese Court Delivers Vagina Verdict: Vagina-Inspired Models Are Pop Art; 3D Printable Files Are Still Obscene

byClare ScottMay 9, 20163D Design3D Printed Art3D Printing

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The Saga of the Japanese 3D Printed Vagina Kayak Lady Continues

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Japan is the only place in the world that could have a $20 billion a year pornography industry, twice the size of the United States, and yet the actual depiction of genitals within that pornography remains illegal. Genitals in general are frowned upon, and typically pixelated or blocked out with black bars, and expressly forbidden even []

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Worlds First Most Beautiful Vagina Winners to Have Their Lady Parts 3D Scanned Made into Adult Toys

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This weeks top 3D printable 3DShare models include a few surprises. For one, we have an anatomically correct vagina that can be used in anatomy lessons (what else would you use it for?!) If that doesnt float your boat, theres a nifty pillbox, cute flower spinner toy tops, a handy Glass Liberator to be used for breaking glass in emergencies, []

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3D Printing Your Vagina is Not Legal in Japan – Artist Megumi Igarashi is Finally Indicted

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Back in July, we reported on a female Japanese artist, named Megumi Igarashi, who had been arrested and then released for creating 3D scans and 3D prints of her own vagina, and then distributing the digital files to others. She had taken 3-dimensional imagery of her genitals and then created unique works of art with []

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Japanese 3D Print Vagina Artist, Megumi Igarashi, is Arrested Yet Again

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Back in July, we reported on a Japanese woman named Megumi Igarashi, who had been arrested in Japan for selling 3D printable files of her genitals. The files which included designs for a 3D printable kayak, had Igarashi in hot water, as Japanese laws are very harsh when it comes to showing or depicting ones []

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3D Printed Vagina Artist, Megumi Igarashi, Speaks Out After Release From Jail

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Japanese Woman Arrested for Selling 3D Printable Files of Her Genitals

byAlan GardnerJul 14, 20143D Design3D Printing

With the advent of 3D printing, artists have been given the gift to print literally whatever they want. For the most part, as long as it is created with plastic, it can be 3D printed. On the positive end of things, we have seen 3D printed prosthetic hands, as well as 3D printed toys for []

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Astro Pi 3D-Print Your Own Flight Case

Back in December, BritishESAastronaut Tim Peake took two specially augmented Raspberry Pis, called Astro Pis, to the International Space Station (ISS) as part of his six-monthmission. These Astro Pis are running experimental Pythonprogramswritten by school-age students; the results will be downloaded back to Earth and made available online for all to see.

To satisfy the safety requirements that ESA andNASAhave for small payloads aboard the ISS, we had to build the Astro Pi flight unit and put it through arigorous qualification process.

One of the two Astro Pi flight units

Ever since this case was announced back in May 2015, people have been asking, Where can I get that case?

At 3000 each, you can see why we only ever made eight of them. Why do they cost so much? Each half of the case is milled out of a solid block of aerospace-grade aluminium using a five-axisCNC mill. The two halves are thenbead-blastedto give them a matt surface, then theyre anodised with a special coating to aid thermal radiation. After that, theres some manual touch-up work, followed by installing the Raspberry Pi hardware and, finally,laser-etchingthe markings and logos.

However, to quote from theoriginal blog postwhere we announced it:

This willnotbe available to the public to buy because were only making a small number of them. We may however, in due course, release an object file so schools with a 3D printer can print one themselves.

With todays blog post were making good on this promise!

Initially we just tried to 3D-print the original CAD files to see how hard it would be. The trouble with 3D printers is that they use hot thermoplastics, which can bend and sag under their own weight.

To avoid this, the printer creates whats known asscaffoldingandraftingto ensure the structural integrity of the object during the printing process. The user has to peel off this support material to get the original object they were trying to print. Any part of the object that overhangs will cause support structure to be built below it to prevent sagging. So the lower part of the flight case, with the grid of pins, came out chock full of the stuff:

Scaffolding and rafting that must be manually removed

After about 20 minutes with a pair of pliers, and accidentally snapping one of the corner pins, we decided this would be too frustrating for most users.

The base with scaffolding and rafting still remaining

The lid was slightly better. It was printed with the outer surface of the case facing downwards, to avoid support structure filling the internal cavity. But this meant that the outer surface came out with rafting all over it, and removing this resulted in a characteristicstringyfinish that doesnt look great.

The lid, printed with outer surface facing down

So we set about modifying the design so that even users with low-end 3D printers would be able to successfully print it, with minimal scaffolding and rafting.

Many thanks to Ben Martin fromSolid Modelsin Cambridge for running off so many test prints for us, and toJonathan Wells(who did the original CAD work) for the many tweaks and changes. Our own Creative Producer,Rachel Rayns, contributed lots of 3D printing experience which led to these decisions. It was most definitely an iterative process!

The first change we agreed on was to slice off the heat sink on the base, so that it could be printed in the opposite orientation. That way it would have nothing overhanging to cause support structure to be built between the pins.

The heat sink as a discrete part (click for 3D STL view)

We then sliced off the top of the lid so that it could be printed with the clean side facing upwards, meaning the stringy side would face down.

The lid as a discrete part (click for 3D STL view)

That was a lot nicer looking. So with the lid and heat sink sliced off, it meant the two original middle bits were left as discrete parts.

The middle as a discrete part (click for 3D STL view)

We also removed the pillars between the USB and Ethernet ports because these snapped off easily. Finally, for convenience, we changed the corner bolt enclosures from a sunken captive screw to a straight-through M4 nut-and-bolt design.

The base as a discrete part (click for 3D STL view)

You can use epoxy adhesive (or similar) to join the heat sink to the base and the lid to the middle. When the Raspberry Pi and Sense HAT are installed itll end up looking something like this:

The assembled flight unit, still missing a few buttons

To guide you through the assembly process weve created abrand new educational resourcethat covers everything from downloading the STL files and getting the fixtures and fittings you need right through to testing that youve wired up the push buttons correctly. Click through and take a look:

The Astro Pi flight case is one of the most desirable cases in the history of the Raspberry Pi. With this resource you will learn how to 3D print your own case and install the Astro Pi hardware inside it.

Were really looking forward to seeing the cases you make please show us by tweeting pictures berry_Pi.

By far the most exciting benefit of owning an Astro Pi flight unit is the ability to prototype and test code that could be run on the International Space Station. Head over to the Astro Pi website now to get involved in the newcoding challenges!

We sliced the case into four layers to minimise the amount of scaffolding and rafting that needs to be printed; it also keeps printing time down. The text of the blog post above explains this in more detail.

Yes. They are released under the Creative Commons attributionlicenseso you are welcome to modify them. Please note that GitHub has a greatSTL viewerand also has a3D file diff, which could be useful for tracking changes.

Currently, no. Raspberry Pi needs to retain the ability to be the sole manufacturer of the space-qualified Astro Pi flight unit. You are welcome to reverse-engineer the STL files weve released today, though.

How do you fit the hardware inside it?

The educational resource weve written covers this in great detail: check it outhere.

I dont have access to a 3D printer, but I really want this case. What can I do?

You may be able to find one at your localhackspace. You can also find local 3D-printing services through the3D Hubswebsite.

*Runs to makerlab to get to the 3D printer first.*

Bravo and thanks Dave and all the other contributers.

Well done in getting this completed. Look forward to seeing peoples creations.

Its in the resource linked above:

Id love to see somebody with a few thousand quid to spare running these up on Shapeways new sintered aluminium process

Try Theyll 3D print your uploaded models in quite a few materials incl. metals. I have bought several camping stove caps in sintered steel from them.

Didnt know they did sintered steel their standard steel looks the same process as Shapeways, an inket print of glue onto a bed of powder, then a bath in liquid bronze to replace the glue with bronze. Will dig deeper looking for sintering

So what materials are people going for? GP Plastic or high detail resin?

Brilliant, I didnt notice you had said you might make the 3D printer files available but great that you did

I cant wait to get a demo one set up on my desk for the students to see!

Is this being made available to 3rd party manufacturers to freely copy and produce for sale or licensed to manufacturers, or is there a condition that prevents that?

Im not a manufacturer wanting to make them myself, but I dont have access to 3D Print and I was wondering if they are likely to be on sale as a finished product.

Hi thanks for the reply David, I did read the FAQ. Asking a 3DHub member to do a one off is going to be frighteningly expensive, hence my hope that a manufacturer will do volume production and reduce the cost.

Ive just ordered some more filament, so hopefully I can have a go at printing this over the weekend. In fact my wife is positively encouraging me to do so, despite not normally getting involved in my Pi related shenanigans..

Well I know what Ill be printing tonight. 🙂

Darn it, came to ask for the original files, as I have access to a mill. Sigh. Right there in the FAQ a no go. A nice, really solid, low RFI RPi case would be very nice

Meh I usually prefer to print money (oops)

Great work! Would it be possible to get copies of the STLs with fewer modifications and slicing for those of us who are more skilled at 3D printing? Particularly without the captive nut and screw hole modifications. Pretty please?

(Yes, I read the Can we have the original CAD? Im not asking for the originals, just something closer to them.)

OUTSTANDING!!! We received a very nice, low-cost ($249 Black Friday on-line from now $399) XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 1.0 WiFi 3D Printer that has a 5.9 x 5.9 x 5.9 in. build volume. Based on the size of a Pi and SenseHAT, this appears to be within that limit. Can anyone confirm what the outermost dimensions of this print are? Thanks!

Will the AstroPii remain on the ISS after Tim Peake leaves? If so, will other astronauts take over the educational mission? If thats the case (pun fully intended 🙂 ), will there be more experiment/code competitions for students located outside the UK to be uploaded, as was indicated in earlier blogs/comments when the UK student competitions were ongoing?

The full width is 109 x 109 mm, so hopefully that will fit.

The software that comes with your printer should be able to tell you though.

To answer your second question yes, there is a new competition in progress right now where you can get your code uploaded to the ISS:

Were currently in talks with ESA about French ESA Astronaut Thomas Pesquet using the Astro Pis in future:

Thanks very much Dave, for both the answer and your work to help pull this off. I see that, once again, the new challenge is only for students in the UK, and thats very disappointing. Whatever happened to the INTERNATIONAL in the ISS? Yes, I understand that students outside the U.S. dont seem to have as many opportunities to participate in STEM programs, let alone space programs, as students in the U.S. seem to, but theres a bell curve here, too. Half of the population that rarely makes it onto TV or YouBoob lives in rural and agricultural areas, which are largely intellectual deserts. Thats why meth labs and distribution are becoming industries in their own right there is no hope of escaping such places without a strong educational foundation.

However, many U.S. schools in those regions have budding international programs that span the now-archaic boundaries drawn by incredibly-uninformed colonialists. The high school where Im teaching has students from over 50 countries who speak over 62 languages, and that doesnt even count the software development languages! 😀 Additionally, we offer the full spectrum of Cambridge International curriculum as honors courses, so if anywhere should be included in such competitions, schools like ours should be.

Id like to encourage Clive, Carrie Anne, and the rest of the education team at the Foundation to help us get Picademy established in our tech-isolated location in the rural Southern Midwest and Upper South, as well as including schools with large international student bodies in the space fun. I know the U.S. astronauts are being sent Microsoft HoloLens units, but thats more of a sad brand promotion publicity stunt of something that even developers wont get until the Summer for $3,000 a pop, and it isnt even slated to become a product in the foreseeable future, so I dont see how that connects to education at all. As one Bard might say if alive today, The Pis the thing 😉

Did anybody find some good replacements for the original pushbuttons? The space ones are way to expensive.

Those look similar to the ones I ordered ( They arrived today and fit nicely! Have yet to wire them up tho

The (and associated colours) are too large for the case without modding it I found out the hard way 🙁

I have a problem to find the right 220 pin PCB header. Can some one say wich of these both are the right?

Hi there, the pins need to be 15mm long. So the first one you linked has 10mm long pins, so that one is out. The second one has 10mm pins but stacked up, thats the one I would go for.

You can also get the correct part from Toby Electronics;

Also, in the future CPC may be selling a parts bundle for the flight case. Which will contain everything you need including the buttons.

There would be an economy (with cheap buttons) and premium version (with the APEM buttons used in the real flight units).

Education Resource Engineer at the Raspberry Pi Foundation

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The new Astro Pi website is now live and packed full of space-age awesome

Details and pictures of the Astro Pi flight case

Copy a Car Key With a 3D Printer

Disaster! My only copy of the my car key broke, I park on the street and have to move my car by Saturday 9AM today is Friday and I have to go to work. What to do? I could call an auto locksmith or take it in to the dealer but that would be expensive and take time. There has to be a better way, Im going to upgrade my key into the 21st century and make a 3D printed copy withFusion360.

Fusion360 is a powerful cloud enabled 3D modeling platform, and the best part if you register as an enthusiast its free!

The process of duplicating the key is pretty straight forward, we will use calipers and a camera to get the general geometry of the key. We will then model it in Fusion360. And finally we will print the key on a Connex500.

The first step to making a reconstructed duplicate is to take orthogonal photos of the original. We need to get at lease one good shot of the side of the key and a basic shot of the profile of the key. These photos will be our guide for tracing and where to measure.

Lay the key down and get it as flat as you can. Try to get the light as even as you can. Take the photos from a bit further away than you think you would need to, taking them further away means the profile will appear flatter. The flatter the image the more accurate the trace will be.

Open up a new design in Fusion360, in the model workspace go to the insert tab and add in your best photo of the profile.

Now that you have the photos for reference use your calipers to get a known easy to measure dimension. In this case I used the width of the key. With that dimension use the calibrate tool to scale the image so it is at the real scale of the object.

Now that the image is scaled we can start building the blank of the key. Use the calipers to measure the length and width of the key. Make a new sketch then a rectangle of the basic size of the key. Measure the keys thickest point and extrude the sketch to that volume. If you want you can also add a handle at this point.

Next add in the grooves on the side of the key. Use the caliper to measure the distances both along the axis of the key and along the width of the gaps. Record them in a new 2D sketch.

Use your calipers to get the depth of the grooves. Extrude them down but do not subtract them yet.

The key Im using has the same grooves on both sides, so copy the bodies you just made for the grooves and then rotate them around the center of the key, you should now have the same volumes on the top and the bottom.

Use the combine tool and the action of cut to carve the tool volumes for the grooves.

Add chamfers at the end of the grooves to add additional strength.

Now that you have essential the exact same thing you would cut a key from with a machine its time to cut the profile. The profile of the key is what does the work of moving the lock pins to the unlock position. You can see how they work in the gif above.

Turn the image of the key back on. Make a new sketch of the profile of the key. Zoom in and trace the key as carefully as you can. Accuracy is key here.

Once you have the profile make a box around it to close the profile. Extrude that profile up to cut your blank.

Add some finishing touches to your model, you could add some fillets to the handle or refine the profiles.

When you are ready use the combine tool again to join the blank and the handle.

Right click the new body and select save as STL

Save the stl out to the location you want to print from.

Once you have the STL model its time to move over to the printer.

You need a high resolution printer to do this, you also need durable material. You might be able to get away with using a Form1 orEmber printer, there are many resins out there but you need one with high strength since the part is small.

We used the Connex500 at the piece and the Endur polypropylene-like material. Although nowhere near as strong as metal it should be good for a couple uses.

The moment of truth. Try the key is a non-essential lock first, that way if it breaks off its not too big of a problem. Go slow and jiggle the key if necessary.

If the lock makes marks on the key or doesnt fit then just go back and reprint.

Finally go big! You can see here I just went for it, and it worked…sort of. The key fit the lock and was able to turn, it broke when turning the additional bit to start. With the key engaged you can turn the ignition with a screwdriver (you may be able to do that without the key too).

Success (sort of) I was able to avoid a ticket and get through the weekend!

In a sense its also an epic fail, but so close, with a little bit more material innovation 3D printing a key will be a reality!

It does raise a lot of questions, how much stronger does the plastic need to be?

What would a fully 3D printed lock/key set look like?

Could metal be integrated into the plastic print to make it work better?

Up next how to replace your ignition lock cylinder…

Please be positive and constructive.

Now that I have the photos of your keys….hmm….

Maybe bend a small loop in thin but stiff wire, heat it and insert it into the plastic. Let it cool around the loop and pull it out?

Another idea would be to de-couple the two motions of 1)bumping the pins and 2)turning the cylinder.

Make the key out of plastic, but leave a notch near the handle end so you can turn the cylinder with the screwdriver, but still have enough material to pull the plastic out of the keyhole.

For a more durable permanent replacement you could find a way to cast a metal copy. Im sure in some cases that could be done straight from the original broken key, but if its too messed up the 3D printing trick might be very helpful.

Just wondering… In most modern cars they have an immobilizer RFID tag in the key, so if someone makes a fake key the car still wont start. How did you start your car without it?

If someone needed to do this to an RFID enabled key they could just keep the remains of the original key nearby when they use it. Put them on the same keychain or something.

my car is not what you might call modern this would not work for new cars. But there are many other locks out there that could use 3d printed keys!

I was also thinking about this. My mothers car key broke and we placed the rfid near the sensor and welded the remaining of the key to a washer. Ive heard its quite expensive to make copies of those keys.

You Could possibly consider using some carbon infused plastic for better strength, or you could drill some holes through the key and fill in the holes with some stiff metal wire coated with an epoxy.. awesome instructable, i had fun reading it

I love the idea, but I agree, it needs a little more work shopping :). Broken keys in the lock are a hassle in and of themselves! Ill be excited to see future prototypes!

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3D Printed 1022 Rifles Are a Reality

3D Printed 10/22 Rifles Are a Reality

The world of 3D printing is evolving at a breakneck pace. What started out a couple of years with basic, single shot firearms that were not very practical has turned into technology would could revolutionize the gun industry.

In this case, a 3D printed 10/22 (based on Rugers popular rifle) has been printed and fired with factory parts/accessories. The folks over have documented the whole process for the world to see. In fact, this project was actually started back in 2013, but there is now renewed interest in the project.

These early prints were done in 2013 but with all the recent hype about 3d printed Ruger 10/22 Rifles being printed we wanted to confirm that yes its possible and weve done it before.

The CAD files for the Ruger 10/22 rifle receiver are in the latest Fosscad Megapack 4.7. An STL file was created directly from the solid model (IGES file) and was printed using Bolson black ABS (Below). Haveblue printed the receiver upside down so that the interior didnt need any support material, and thus would provide as good a finish as possible.

Note: Please note local, state and federal laws may apply to 3D printed firearms depending on your location.

An Open Letter to 22LR Buyers and Seekers

Gun Rights Supporters Take Over Anti-Gun Presentation

Armed Individual at Colorado School May Have Prevented Mass Shooting

23 Pro Gun Celebrities Yes, They Do Exist! **UPDATED July 2014**

Vagina 3D models

Here you can find Vagina 3D models ready for 3D printing. Purchase and download 3D models, stream and print with your own 3D printer, or buy 3D-printed product – we will 3D print and ship it to your home.

SolidWorks (.sldprt/.sldasm/.slddrw)

Houdini (.hda/.hip/.bgeo/.geo/.bclip/.clip/.hipnc)

Reallusion iClone (.iprop,/.iAcc,/iCloth,/iAvatar,/iEffect)

Catia V5 (.CATProduct/.CATMaterial/.CATAnalysis)

Marvelous Designer Project (*.ZPrj/.ZPrj)

Alibre/Geomagic Design Package (.ad_pkg)

Alibre/Geomagic Sheetmetal (.ad_smp)

CGTrader – 3D Models / 3D Designers

How to 3D Print with Google Sketchup

If you haven’t already, grab yourself a copy of Google SketchupÂ

When using Sketchup with 3D Printing, you need to remember that a 3D Printer creates a solid object and therefore when designing you need to design in solids.

Notice the dark blue/purple colour in the images above, this tells you that the object is not a solid, and thus will not print correctly.

Tip: When designing small objects in sketchup that require printing, don’t design in mm as sketchup seems to have a problem at this level, design in meters and then scale down your design later.

You will require some free plugins to get the best out of Google Sketchup to work with solids and the 3D Printer.

The UP 3D Printer software only opens files in STL format, so you need to export these files using the free plugin below.

Another useful plugin is the solid inspector, you will first need to group your object and then run the solid inspector to check it.

To install any plugins, they need to be copied to your google sketchup  plugins folder.

Print 3D objects

With Photoshop, you can print any compatible 3D model without worrying about 3D printer limitations. In preparation for printing, Photoshop automatically makes 3D models watertight. Photoshop also generates the necessary support structuresscaffolding and raftsto ensure that your 3D prints are successful.

panel, choose whether you want to print to a printer connected to your computer through a USB port (local printer) or use an online 3D printing service, such as or Sculpteo.

You can now print 3D models as 3D Manufacturing Format (3MF) files. While specifying the3D Print Settings, selectPrint To:LocalandPrinter:3MF File. When you print the 3D object, Photoshop generates the 3MF file. On computers running Windows, Photoshop also launches Microsoft 3D Builder for you to work further on the 3MF file.

To refresh the list of supported printers or online profiles, selectGet Latest Printersfrom thePrint Topop-up menu.

To view estimated prices for printing the 3D model using available Shapeways.com profiles, selectPrinterEstimate Price.

Select a unit for the printer volume

dimensions as well as the print plate measurements.

for the 3D print. The time required to print the 3D object depends on the detail level that you choose.

If you dont want to see the 3D printer volume overlaid on the 3D model, deselect

dimensions to specify the desired size of the printed 3D object. When you change a value (

), the other two values are scaled proportionately. As you modify the

dimensions, notice that the print plate under the 3D model scales in proportion.

You can scrub the value of aScene Volumedimension by clicking the dimension label (X,Y, orZ) and then dragging the mouse left or right. Hold down the Shift key to make the value scrub faster.

if you want Photoshop to auto-scale your 3D model, such that it fills up the available print volume of the selected printer.

If the 3D model has normal maps, bump maps, or opacity maps; you can choose to ignore one of more types of these maps while printing the model. Youll notice that the 3D model updates in real time when you change these

You may choose to not print the support structures (scaffolds or rafts) required for the 3D object. Use this option with caution, since the printing of the 3D model may fail if you dont print a necessary support structure.

If your printer supports multiple materials, choose the material that you want to use for printing the 3D object.

You can enable an experimental feature that lets you print continuous tones using your MakerBot Replicator 2x 3D printer.

As a prerequisite to multitone printing, you must enable experimental features in Photoshop:

Experimental features are not yet production-ready. Use these features with discretion.

Select the multitone surface material

. If this option is not available for selection, ensure that the

experimental feature is already enabled.

Select other options relevant to the 3D object that youre printing.

to preview and print the 3D object.

Previewing and printing the 3D object

Once youre done specifying the 3D print settings, follow these steps:

If you chose to print using a Shapeways.com profile, Photoshop prompts you that the actual cost of printing may differ from the displayed estimates. Click

In the preview window that appears, use the 3D camera tools to rotate, zoom, or move the 3D object.

If you want to export the 3D print settings to an STL file, click

and save the file to an appropriate location on your computer. You can upload the STL file to an online service or put it on an SD card for local printing.

Review the 3D print summary and click

You can cancel an in-progress 3D print by selecting3DCancel 3D Print.

Photoshop provides interactive wizard-based utilities that you can use for configuring, calibrating, and maintaining your 3D printer. You can use these utilities only when the 3D printer is powered on and connected to your computer.

Helps level the print plate. This utility performs the following broad steps:

You can use this utility in the wizard mode or in the manual mode.

Helps load a filament into a fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printer. Photoshop initiates the head-heating process and the filament-loading mechanism for easy filament loading.

Helps remove a filament from an FDM 3D printer. Photoshop initiates the head-heating process and the filament-loading mechanism for easy filament removal.

Helps replace the filament of an FDM 3D printer with a new filament. Photoshop initiates the head-heating process and the filament-loading mechanism for easy filament changing.

At times, you may want to print multiple instances of the same object on the same build plate. Follow these steps:

Photoshop currently supports the following local 3D printers:

Additionally, Photoshop supports several Shapeways.com and Sculpteo profiles.

Direct USB printing with the MakerBot Replicator 5th Generation printer profile is not supported yet. You can export the files you want to print to a USB stick and then print them locally.

Yes. You can define cross sections to slice away parts of a 3D model before printing. Follow these broad steps:

Before printing, you must bake the cross section youve defined.

Can I apply bump/opacity/normal maps to a 3D model before printing it?

panel, click the folder icon () next to

and load a texture. You can also define a new texture that you want to apply to the 3D model.

If youre defining a new texture, save the texture. The texture is applied to the 3D model as a bump/opacity map.

Applying a bump map to a 3D model before printing

Applying an opacity map to a 3D model before printing

Can I print 3D models in two colors?

If your 3D printer is equipped with two heads, you can print 3D models in two colors. ThePrint Propertiespanel displays pop-up options for the additional heads available. The 3D workspace and the 3D print preview display the model in two colors.

How are 3D models having multiple layers printed?

From a printing standpoint, each layer in the 3D model is treated as a 3D object. If necessary, you can merge two or more layers (3DMerge 3D Layers).

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