Comparison of 3D printers

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12.5in 8in 10in (320mm 200mm 250mm)

11in 8in 12in (280mm 200mm 300mm)

64mm 40mm 134mm (2.5in 1.6in 5.3in)

150mm 150mm 150mm (5.9in 5.9in 5.9in)

400mm 600mm 800mm (16in 24in 31in)

130mm 96mm 139mm (5.1in 3.8in 5.5in)

152.4mm 153.4mm 152.4mm (6.00in 6.04in 6.00in)

285.4mm 230mm 270.4mm (11.24in 9.06in 10.65in)

43mm 27mm 150mm (1.7in 1.1in 5.9in)

8in 8in 8in (200mm 200mm 200mm)

approximately 2 vertical inches per hour (~100 candies/hr)

610mm 340mm 230mm (24.0in 13.4in 9.1in)

8.5in 11in 17in (220mm 280mm 430mm)

8.5in 11in 7in (220mm 280mm 180mm)

45mm 25mm 100mm (1.77in 0.98in 3.94in)

100mm 75mm 100mm (3.9in 3.0in 3.9in)

125mm 125mm 125mm (4.9in 4.9in 4.9in)

306mm 306mm 306mm (12.0in 12.0in 12.0in)

125mm 125mm 125mm (4.9in 4.9in 4.9in)

298mm 275mm 250mm (11.7in 10.8in 9.8in)

100mm 100mm 130mm (3.9in 3.9in 5.1in)

225mm 145mm 150mm (8.9in 5.7in 5.9in)

Makerbot Replicator 2 Desktop 3D Printer

Makerbot Replicator 2X Experimental 3D Printer

Makerbot Replicator Desktop 3D Printer

Makerbot Replicator Mini Compact 3D Printer

100mm 100mm 100mm (3.9in 3.9in 3.9in)

250mm 250mm 265mm (9.8in 9.8in 10.4in)

150mm 150mm 150mm (5.9in 5.9in 5.9in)

150mm 150mm 150mm (5.9in 5.9in 5.9in)

100mm 105mm 130mm (3.9in 4.1in 5.1in)

10in 9in 8in (250mm 230mm 200mm)

152.4mm 152.4mm 101.6mm (6.00in 6.00in 4.00in)

152.4mm 152.4mm 101.6mm (6.00in 6.00in 4.00in)

152.4mm 152.4mm 50.8mm (6.00in 6.00in 2.00in)

152.4mm 152.4mm 50.8mm (6.00in 6.00in 2.00in)

254mm 254mm 305mm (10.0in 10.0in 12.0in)

914mm 610mm 914mm (36.0in 24.0in 36.0in)

127mm 127mm 127mm (5.0in 5.0in 5.0in)

234mm 192mm 148.6mm (9.21in 7.56in 5.85in)

294mm 192mm 148.6mm (11.57in 7.56in 5.85in)

255mm 252mm 200mm (10.0in 9.9in 7.9in)

300mm 200mm 100mm (11.8in 7.9in 3.9in)

StratasysObjet Eden260VS Dental Advantage

260mm 260mm 200mm (10.2in 10.2in 7.9in)

StratasysObjet Eden3500V for Dental

340mm 340mm 200mm (13.4in 13.4in 7.9in)

490mm 390mm 200mm (19.3in 15.4in 7.9in)

490mm 390mm 200mm (19.3in 15.4in 7.9in)

1,000mm 800mm 500mm (39in 31in 20in)

203mm 203mm 152mm (8.0in 8.0in 6.0in)

203mm 203mm 152mm (8.0in 8.0in 6.0in)

210mm 210mm 205mm (8.3in 8.3in 8.1in)

230mm 225mm 205mm (9.1in 8.9in 8.1in)

300mm 200mm 250mm (11.8in 7.9in 9.8in)

200mm 200mm 180mm (7.9in 7.9in 7.1in)

140mm 140mm 140mm (5.5in 5.5in 5.5in)

3D Printer Buying Guide – Airwolf 3D

3D Printers – Compare – 3D Systems.

. Archived fromthe originalon 1 September 2014

3D Printer Overview – 3D Printer Families – EnvisionTEC.

Desktop SLA 3D Printing Technical Specifications Formlabs.

3D Printers for Professional Applications – Stratasys.

Industrial 3D printer – voxeljet solutions

Zortrax M200 3D Printer – Valued by THOUSANDS of users

3D Printers, New – Zortrax Online Store.

Zortrax Inventure 3D Printer – Smart PROFESSIONAL

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Ultimaker products

Snow Business: 3D printing final parts for high-value snow machines

Volkswagen Autoeuropa: Maximizing production efficiency with 3D printed tools, jigs, and fixtures

Tucci Hot Rods: 3D printing final custom car parts

Flexible, future-proof and ready to turn your creative concept into reality, Ultimaker ensures accurate, consistent results – tailored to your needs. Enjoy a seamlessly integrated 3D printing experience – where hardware, software and materials work in a perfect harmony.

The Ultimaker 3 is the most reliable dual extrusion 3D printer available. Achieve complex designs and improved 3D print performance, thanks to its unique auto-nozzle lifting system, professional build and support material combinations, and swappable print cores.

The Ultimaker 2+ desktop 3D printer is based on the award-winning Ultimaker 2 and features all of our latest innovations and understanding of 3D printing.

Our smallest, lightweight printer is great for makers on the go, or those just getting started in the 3D world.

Our very first printer, this DIY kit is a true makers paradise as its designed to be rebuilt and endlessly modified.

Whatever your needs, we have a variety of eye-catching colours and compounds so you get the right filament for your 3D print.

Ultimaker Cura is the worlds most advanced 3D printer software, engineered to either hold your hand or give you complete freedom.

Easy access to tech support at home or on-the-go. Includes set-up instructions, step-by-step guides and troubleshooting for every Ultimaker 3D printer.

Start and monitor your 3D prints with a swipe of a finger, and enjoy a streamlined, future-ready 3D printing experience with your Ultimaker 3.

Designed to make the best even better, choose from a wide range of add-ons to enrich your 3D printing experience.

Complement your Ultimaker with the most common user-serviceable parts for all of our machines.

New OWL Nano 3D Printer with ultra-high resolution

3d printer filament, 3d printer and 3d printer news,3d printers price compare, 3d printing materials price compare, what is 3d printing, 3d printing books, 3d printing tutorials, 3d printing events

New OWL Nano 3D Printer with ultra-high resolution

New OWL Nano 3D Printer with ultra-high resolution

3D printing industry is growing up and we could hear about new3D printer modelswith increasing frequency. Please welcome a new 3D printer model called OWL Nano, named after its originating company, Old World Laboratories.

The OWL has a curious and a little bit strange design but at the same time can deliver incredibly good resolution. It is based on photo-cured resin technology and uses a laser to selectively cure layers of UV-curable resin, gradually building up an object.

The main feature of the OWL device from other3d printersusing the same technology is its ultra-high resolution. Other laser-based resin 3D printers use a system of mirrors to direct the laser light toward the resin surface. Creators of the OWL Nano entirely eliminated the mirrors so that the single-strand laser can blast the resin directly.

Thanks to this invention the laser beam can be much more accurate. The OWL spokesperson claims that they were able to achieve 0.1 microns which is equals to 0.0001 millimeters!

You may find more detailed information and order the OWL Nano (the current price is $4,900) following thislink.

New to 3D Printing? Check out our3D Printing basicssection, find the answer on popular questionwhat is 3d printingand learn about many other interesting things.

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3D Printer Tolerance Test

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Tolerance tests for a high res 3d printer, designed with features beyond machine resolution (~1500dpi) to demonstrate how your printer/material fails. Must be printed on a machine that uses some kind of support material. Includes thin walls and wells up to 0.00063425in thick, a wide range of curvature (including gently sloping surfaces to test z axis resolution), a sharp peak, a cavity, and several moving hinges of varying tolerances.

testPrint- whole assembly in one file

testPrintAssem(7 files) – each solid body of assembly in a separate file

solidworks parts and assemblies also attached




byamandaghassaeiis licensed under theCreative Commons – Public Domain Dedicationlicense.

By downloading this thing, you agree to abide by the license:

Creative Commons – Public Domain Dedication

Upgrade this Thing with Thingiverse Apps

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Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea…

You dont need to print anything to test printers callibaration.

All you have to do is to hold the digital caliper in place and move it with stepper controls.

Motion reflected on the caliper will tell you how far off you are from what you told it to move.

This will only get you within a few steps-per-mm. But will do nothing for bridge flow rate, temperature, and very little with extrusion width. And printing is required to know how accurately the slicing software and printer handles different tolerances and pared to the shrink ratio of each filament.

Flow is very easily calibrated by looking at it.

IF you print 10x10x10mm cube and 100x100x100 with overflow of (about) 2 times too much, it will not make your model 2 times bigger, it will make your shell (sides and top and bottom) look smooshed.

Get rid of smooshed filament and thats all the calibration you need for the flow. Its eazy to see this effect when printing solid objects starting from 3rd layer and up (because 1st layer is typically too low to start with for adhesion purposes and is slightly smooshed)

This image shows too low of a flow rate ( and this is too much of a flow rate (

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I noticed that a printer has the specification of Z POSITIONING PRECISION 2.5 MICRONS and LAYER RESOLUTION 100 MICRONS.

I dont understand that why it cant print at a layer thickness of 2.5 microns?

Or Z positioning precision is just the mechanical movement accuracy of its nozzle? So whats the meaning of it

it means that the bed can move up and down in 2.5 micron increments. But you can only extrude a layer of plastic 100 microns thick.

That has nothing to do with the precision of the vertical movement, and a lot to do with the extruder, the plastic itself and the nozzle.

And to be honest no one in their right mind would want to print thinner layers than 0.1mm with an fff machine anyway.

Can you say three weeks to print anything.

Getting that thin a layer of plastic is seriously hard. Your calibration has to be absolutely perfect as does the temperature and viscosity of the plastic.

Originally Posted bycurious aardvarkit means that the bed can move up and down in 2.5 micron increments. But you can only extrude a layer of plastic 100 microns thick.Well said. Actually, Layer resolution 100 mcirons indicates (accurately or not) that the layers can be put down in increments of 100 microns – 100, 200, 300, etc. They probably mean minimum layer thickness, and they can probably print 150 micron layers as well.

I dont agree about the difficulty, but I do agree about the printing duration. We print most parts at 200 microns, but we have printed at 25, 50 and 100 microns. IT TAKES FOREVER AT 25 MICRONS.

The same print will take 30 minutes at 200 microns, an hour at 100 microns, two hours at 50 microns, and four hours at 25 microns.

The quality improvement is not worth the wait for most of the things we do.

Precision, accuracy and resolution, dont be fooled by those words, every of them have different meaning.

it means that the bed can move up and down in 2.5 micron increments. But you can only extrude a layer of plastic 100 microns thick.

That has nothing to do with the precision of the vertical movement, and a lot to do with the extruder, the plastic itself and the nozzle.

And to be honest no one in their right mind would want to print thinner layers than 0.1mm with an fff machine anyway.

Can you say three weeks to print anything.

Getting that thin a layer of plastic is seriously hard. Your calibration has to be absolutely perfect as does the temperature and viscosity of the plastic.

hell i dont print anything lower than 0.2.

Well , can i say that the Z positioning precision is useless ?

Precision, accuracy and resolution, dont be fooled by those words, every of them have different meaning.

Well , can i say that the Z positioning precision is useless ?

you can say that – if youre an idiot.

Okay so the machine only (lol only) prints in 0.1mm increments. But in order to do that accurately, layer after layer, after layer, after layer…

You need a very precise and accurate stepper motor – and thats what the z positioning precision is telling you.

If you have low z positioning precision you could find that the error in each layer, could gradually get worse and end up effecting the overall accuracy of the model.

Precision – How accurately something can move or measure.

Resolution – The smallest division it can accurately work with or display.

For example, a digital caliper may boast a .0001mm precision and have an LCD display that shows 199.99mm. Its precision would be 0.1 micron but its resolution is only 1 micron. That means it can measure down to .01mm (1 micron) but do it extremely accurately. Make sense?

For the OP, the precision parameter describes how accurately the z axis can return or go to any specific height. If the code says to go to 100mm in the z axis, the machine is capable of going there to within +- 2.5 microns. So it would be somewhere between 100.0025mm and 99.9975mm.

The resolution is the increment of the z axis that it can print at. In this case, down to 0.100mm or 100 microns. But it will be +- 2.5 microns of that 100 microns or 97.5 to 102.5 microns accurate layer to layer positioning. If it was told to print at 200 micron layers (common fine resolution print setting) it would do so from 197.5 to 202.5 layer accuracy.

Precision – How accurately something can move or measure.

Well, thats not really right. (though you got resolution spot-on)

An example of precision is if you have a print head move on and off of one coordinate, how close the head moves to that exact coordinate each time. Almost every printer isveryprecise.

Accuracy is if you have the head move between two points that should be a set distance apart, how close the two actual points are to the expected measurement. Most printers are very accurateifcalibrated correctly and run at a speed their frame can handle.

Well, if you want get down to it… As a long range rifle shooter, I am acutely aware of the difference. A precision weapon system and cartridge combination are able to put the bullet in the same place every time. It may not be the right place but its the same place. How big of a diameter that the bullet holes make indicates its precision. Accuracy is the ability to put the bullet group where you want it to go, irrespective of the precision (or lack there of) of the rifle. So, if your weapon system puts a bullet 4 below the target at 400 yards and does so 5 times out of 5, its extremely precise. Its not very accurate (well, unless you are 1200yd away then 4 is darn good). If the same system is adjusted or used in such a way as to hit the intended target in the location selected 5 out of 5 times, its very accurate and precise.

A high precision printer can put the head in the same place every time, or extremely close. Even if its in the wrong place, its the same place each time. I printer that puts the print head 110mm above the print bed within 2.5 microns even though it was told to put it at 100mm, is still extremely precise. Its not very accurate.

Precision is usually (not always) due to design and condition of the physical device. Accuracy can either be user or device oriented. With 3D printers, user interaction is normally what results in poor accuracy. Maladjusted Z stops, bed leveling, etc, all affect accuracy. Its precision remains constant unless hardware damage or malfunction occurs. With a rifle, its precision is by design and the components and methods that were used to produce the ammo. Accuracy is all about the guy (or girl) operating the weapon.

What I stated in my first post should have satisfied the OPs question delineating precision and resolution. He did not ask about accuracy. As such, I rolled them into the single term of precision as most people use the words interchangeably, though incorrectly.

And just so you understand what I by a precision weapon system… Here is my granddaughter behind my Barrett MRAD 300 winchester magnum at 400yd shooting groups the diameter of a 50c piece (yea, thats me at the spotting scope)…

When I shoot it, I generally put quarter sized groups on target from 400 to 600yd. For reference, a quarter is about .95 (24.2mm) diameter. The bullets are .308 (7.8mm) diameter. And I am putting 5 of them in a .95 or less area at 600yd or more.

If you want to get a real look at what these distances is a close one at only 300yd:

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Lulzbot Taz 3D vs Ultimaker 2 3D printer comparison

Lulzbot Taz 3D vs Ultimaker 2: 19 facts in comparison

A heated build platform helps keep the lowest levels of a print warm as the higher layers are printed. This allows the overall print to cool more evenly.

3. Uses fused deposition modeling (FDM)

Printers based on fused deposition modeling (FDM) use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point and then extruded through a nozzle, layer by layer, to create the object. One of the main advantages of printers based on FDM is that they work with a wide range of materials.

The device has a standard memory slot (such as an SD or micro SD card slot) so that you can either extend the internal storage with affordable memory modules or you can retrieve data, such as photographs, easily from a memory card.

The maximum temperature at which the device can perform to the optimal level.

Polyvinyl Acetate is another form of plastic used in 3d printing similar to ABS. It can be used to build support structures for other prints, as it can then be dissolved leaving no marks.

EnvisionTEC Perfactory Micro: 230mm

The speed at which 3d objects are printed, measured in millimeters per second.

This is the biggest size of object that you can print.

Bits from Bytes RapMan Education: 490 x 500 x 850

The printer is able to print in High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS). HIPS is similar to ABS plastic, but uses different solvents (limonene rather than acetone). HIPS is easy to paint and glue.

The printer is able to print in wood. This typically involves printing using a mixture of wood particles and a binding agent, which dries as solid wood.

The highest possible x-axis resolution as measured in microns.

The highest possible y-axis resolution as measured in microns.

Polylactic acid (PLA) is popular in 3D printing as it cools and sets quickly. Unlike ABS plastic, it is biodegradable and therefore better for the environment. It can be used to build support structures for other printouts, as it can then be dissolved leaving no marks.

The printer prints in ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene). This is up to 30 times stronger than regular plastic and is commonly used in 3D printing.

The thinner each print layer is, the more detailed you can make your designs. Layer thickness is often also referred to as resolution and is measured in microns (m).

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3D Printer Superstore pty ltd – Australia

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3d printer superstore- online store open as usual – physical store – re-opensMonday8th Jan 2018 – email – .au

A family portrait 3D Scanned using the Microsoft XBox Kinect with free ReconstructMe software.

Mesh clean up using the powerful free GOM Inspect mesh editing software.

CAD model is easy scaled and ready to print using the Up! Printer software.

Hot off the press. The high resolution model finished in around 4 hours. The UP! white ABS has great translucent qualities.

What an angel- the perfect Christmas present for the grand parents!

Scanned data of a prehistoric crocodile skull in Rhinoceros software

Lower jaw printed on Up! printer plus. The support structure fell off at the end and the printer gave the croc a beard!

Two parts of the skull. Note how well the teeth printed.

The Up! 3D printer plus was set at 0.15mm built increments. The resolution and detail is just awsome!

The Groncle created by Creature Technologies for the How to train your dragon area spectacular. This model was generated from CNC machining the scan data of the clay marquette.

The original 3D scan data of a clay marquette of the Groncle.

Print in progress on the Up! 3d printer plus. Note the internal ribs and support structure- automatically generated in the UP! software.

Love the support structure. Looks like hes sleeping.The fine wings would be impossable to build without it.

The underside. Note the clever support structure which ensures maximun adheison to the plate whilst minimising distortion of the part.

Breaker breaker- 15 minutes later…the remnants of the support structure.

Finished. The print detail is incredible, you can even make out the wrinkles in the skin.

The monocular CAD model converted to a stl mesh ready for printing

Round and round she goes. This part has a 0.7mm wall thickness. No problem for the Up! 3D printer plus!

A strong usable prototype. A 0.1mm clearance gave the perfect fit between parts.

I have had a few days to put the UP! Printer through its paces, and I have got to say I am suitably impressed. The results Ive been getting have exceeded expectations. I thought Id share some of my first prints with you as there probably isnt that much printed in the higher 0.15mm resolution.

Firstly the detail is much greater than I expected. The Groncle has very slight wrinkles in the skin texture, these have translated into the prints. Photos do not do the printer justice- in real life you can hardly notice the layers at all. The monocular has 0.7mm wall sections, this printer without a blemish.

The strength of the material is stronger and tougher than expected. You can truly make functional prototypes with this printer.

I have also grained an appreciation for the different materials. The white material is much easier to break off the raft and sands beautifully. The other 1kg material seem to be a light less chalky and probably better for flexible snap fits.

The software is very easy to get familiar with and use. The support structures are impressive. It is easy for newbies to pick up quickly.

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Supercharge your 3D printer with the Fastbot BBP controller board

Theres no denying that as much as we love our 3D printers, there are many factors involved with the 3D printing process that leave much to be desired. Among them is of course the time it takes once you hit the Print button to having a finished 3D print in your hand.

Aiming to speed up the 3D printing process, a group of young (but experienced!)tech-savvy 3D printing enthusiastswho make up theFastbot teamhave been busy creating a 3D printer controller board that they have recentlylaunched on Kickstarter. The teams BBP 3D printer controller board is designed to be a complete and reliable solution to many current problems with 3D printers, with speed being among them.

The board, which starts at just $79 for early backers, features everything one would seemingly need to upgrade their 3D printer to make it faster and easier to use. Additionally, the board can also be used in other desktop fabrication machines including laser cutters and CNC mills.

The board, which is powered by an AM335x, 1GHZ Cortex-A8 processor and includes 5 or 6 stepper motor drivers, 3 heaters, 6 endstops, 6 fans, 1 microSD Card socket, 1 Ethernet socket and 1 USB socket for USB WiFi or camera connectivity, runs at a higher frequency than traditional control boards (such as RAMPS and Smoothie) whose frequencies are too low to let a motor run faster. With the help of the on-board 3D-bit ARM along with Programmable Realtime Units inside the chip, the BBP is capable of making a 3D printer print at least 4 times faster than before.

We have developed a new 3d printer firmware to fully use the BBP, says the Fastbot team on their Kickstarter page. With the help of this firmware, it is easy to generate high frequency step control signal, and that is why BBP can make 3d printing faster than ever and also the most amazing point.

In addition to supercharging a 3D printer to operate at faster speeds, the BBP also enables a user to connect a USB WiFi dongle to their 3D printer that would enable them to remotely and wirelessly connect their 3D printer to the internet and control the printer from anywhere in the world.

To help make the 3D printing experience easier for mobile users, the Fastbot team has also create an Android app that integrates the 3D viewer and the slicer – which essentially allows a user to move, rotate and resize a model on a platform for 3D printing directly on their mobile device.

Of course, just like how many 3D printer manufacturers offer different sized models for different kinds of users, the Fastbot team has also created their own deluxe version of their BBP board that they are calling the BBP 1S. For just $20 more ($99 for early-birds on their Kickstarter page), the BBP 1S allows users to print in more materials while also supporting dual Z-axis 3D printers. Additionally, the BBP 1S can also handle multiple extruders in the case that a user is 3D printing multiple colors.

Currently, the Fastbot team has already raised over half of their $10,000 goal in a single day with nearly a month to go in their Kickstarter campaign. To find out more, head over to theirKickstarter project page.

Visualize your prototypes before 3D printing them with CastAR glasses

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CEM Crown Extruder, microscope inspired extruder for 3D printer

Discov3ry extruder expands your 3D printer to print silicone, clay & icing sugar

Rabbit Proto add-on lets you print circuits inside your 3D printed design

BAM&DICE, a universal electronics for Arduino based 3D printers

Kikai Labs lets you 3D print and paint object simultaneously

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New extruder could lower costs of 3D printing cellular structures for drug testing

New Ninja Printer Plate for consumer 3D printing

i want to buy this board first please send me manual and datasheet of this motor driver and controller on mail id er.

David wrote at 10/30/2016 5:34:42 PM:

why not moor thermocouple inputs, also can you get to pins so that you can use propper stepper drivers? instead of those silly little ones. also no real info on algorithums and supported commands.

Kurt Rozario wrote at 3/27/2016 8:03:37 PM:

My Email Id is . I cant say that I am completely conscious of what I am doing, but I seem to remember seeing a webpage where the BBP1s 3d Printer controller board was available to purchase. However, now, I cant seem to find the same page. Is the BBP1s or the BBP boards available now, for purchase online?

@DonFG use simplify3d to create the gcode and send it to octoprint. Thats what I do

@DonFG you can use simplify3d to save the gcode and use octoprint to print the gcode. Thats what I do

DonFG wrote at 2/21/2016 3:11:49 AM:

Bad thing about the board is you have to use Octoprint because nothing else connects to it. I already spent $$$ on Simplyfy3D

OverLord wrote at 9/8/2015 11:42:03 AM:

So how many board for 3D Printing do we have now `? Let me see Fastbot BBp 4Pi CBD Tech Chitu Generation 7 Electronics Melzi RAMPS SMOOTHIE And so on make it total 15+ or something

If you are writing your own software then check this out New 3-D printing algorithms speed production, reduce waste – Purdue University

Montague Flange wrote at 6/4/2015 4:11:44 PM:

Would this work with a Flashforge Creator Pro ?

ColnelB wrote at 5/22/2015 4:18:37 PM:

Questions of layout, robust driver components, and firmware are valid. Comparison to more controller boards is valid. Interrupt driven Linux is a real time as it can get, given the way OSs are going today. The real issue is location and quality of manufacture of the boards. Quality control has become a major issue with controller boards of several different types manufactured in a certain country. Where are these boards slated to be manufactured, and what are the QC plans and after sale support for these boards?

KokomoJoe wrote at 3/16/2015 2:02:07 AM:

Looks like a re-packaged beaglebone with a replicape on a single board.

Strange yet expected these days, Reading each sentence I say to may self, No, still not detailing where SPEED INCREASE supposed to come. Eventually the article ended. Question remains, where is the speed increase? Not a single word about motion, motor over driving, high performance bearings. Dual, triple, four heads printing at the same time? A multi-axis robotic arm design? Direct STL file to the controller board skipping the slicing and verifying phase of PC software or just doing that internally on the controller within 3 seconds instead of 3 minutes? Wait, I see multiple extruder support. That is not nothing new. Wifi connection does not equate to speed increase. Plenty of printers already do this. The remaining can just ADD a wireless board. Its not going to make the machine move from 50-100mm/s to 300-600mm/s. Hell is high frequency step control signal? Define high and how that equates to a motor moving faster instead of using idiot marketing catch phrases. Smart people know that to make a motor faster requires increase in torque, steps per second, and power input. A reduction on tool mass can assist in that formula. Is the BBP going to shoot a gravity wave at the hot end to make it lighter?

RaceGeek wrote at 3/12/2015 1:41:24 AM:

I see no mention of what firmware this thing runs, which is as important or more than the hardware. Am i missing someting?

Noise hater wrote at 3/12/2015 12:02:57 AM:

If you want your 3d printer to sound like this?

Anil Kumar wrote at 3/11/2015 1:37:27 PM:

It would be fair to compare this board with the Replicape or even more powerful T-Bone.

Anil Kumar wrote at 3/11/2015 1:33:47 PM:

It would be fair to compare this board with the Replicape or even more powerful T-Bone.

Engi-Neer wrote at 3/11/2015 12:30:25 PM:

I just asked them to show me the board layout before i consider backing this project up. Running DDR3 RAM, Ethernet and Flash-Memory interfaces on the sambe board as all the power electronics and motor drivers is not an easy task to do right. What i dont need is a printer control board that starts to fail at every second print because of some poor layout job and EMC issues… Well see how they react to that.

The truth will out wrote at 3/11/2015 9:22:19 AM:

smoothie is 120mhz not 96, It also has 4GB eMMC. Smoothie has been interfaced with touch screens, and does have wireless support. Also no mention of BBB based board which is a much fairer comparison. Very biased/glaringly wrong table.

wavemill wrote at 3/11/2015 9:09:58 AM:

They are using , you can do real time. But dont know if it works fine for this application!

Real 3d user. wrote at 3/11/2015 8:35:13 AM:

Tech savvy? but doesnt understand the concept of real time vs having an OS overhead?…. Sad…. was looking good till you read Linux based so will always have timing issues. provides the latest news about 3D printing technology and 3D printers. We are now six years old and have around 1.5 million unique visitors per month.

Compare 3D Printers

Check out our top picks for the best 3D printers for home. These printers are perfect if you are a DIYer, hobbyist, engineer, or even a small company making products. These printers will get the job done.

The top of the line premium 3D printers for your home are reviewed below. The price on these will be a bit higher but if you are planning on doing this for awhile, it is best to buy one of these! Make sure to check out the in-depth reviews of the premium printers below.

The Makerbot Replicator line has often been touted as the gold standard for commercial 3D printing. Early models lived up to this, and the print quality is usually the best consumer printers can produce. However, Makerbots decisions in recent years have begun to soil its reputation. The 5thgeneration Replicator uses an extruder prone to clogging. Makerbot has also been moving away from open-source hardware, making the printer difficult to service without voiding the warranty and alienating DIY hobbyists.

Check out reviews and prices of the MakerBot Replicator on

The Replicator has a large heated bed that features assisted leveling and can print in both PLA and ABS. It features a full color LCD display as well as an onboard camera to monitor prints remotely. The Replicator can print from a USB stick, a USB cable (connected to a computer), Wifi, or Ethernet.

The FlashForge Creator Pro is the step up from their Creator. It features a more rigid metal frame and more features. The Dual extruders can handle just about any material on the market, including PLA, ABS, Nylon, and Composites containing wood and metal The Creator Pro is a cheaper, more open source alternative to the Replicator. The metal bed frame will not sag due to heat like the replicators plastic frame will, so bed leveling occurs less often.

Check out reviews and prices of the FlashForge Creator Pro on

The Lulzbot mini is an open source printer that offers some surprising features. It uses a PEI print surface instead of the kapton or masking tape most printers rely on, and this allows it to be easily cleaned with isopropyl alcohol instead of being replaced every print. It has a bed leveling system that probes the four corners of the build plate to level the printing head. It also sports a fabric patch to automatically clean the print head of stray filaments before printing.

Check out reviews and prices of the Lulzbot Mini on

The Lulzbot Mini uses a powerful extruder that can reach 300C and a heated bed that can reach 120C, meaning it can print just about any filament on the market (Lulzbot warns only against using carbon fiber-infused filaments as these will degrade the extruder nozzle). The Mini can also print at resolutions of just .05mm (50 microns)

The budget 3D home printers are perfect for the beginner. They mostly have all of the features a premium 3D printer would have. They may lack in speed and customizability. Make sure to check out the in-depth reviews of this printers below.

The XYZ Da Vinci is the big brother to the Da Vinci Jr. It is still reasonably priced around $500 and offers a few more capabilities than its smaller counterpart; ABS printing, for instance. The printer is also ready to go out of the box, you can be printing in minutes just like the Da Vinci Jr.

Check out reviews and prices of the DaVinci on

It uses the same bed-leveling technology as the Jr., but it still needs some manual calibration on occasion to print correctly. The bed is also heated, allowing for ABS prints, something the Jr. cannot do.

Based on open source designs, the FlashForge Creator is a cheaper alternative to the Makerbot Replicator. It offers a large build volume of 225 x 145 x 150 mm and dual extruders for printing in multiple colors or printing multiple parts at the same time. The extruders can reach a temperature of 230C and the heated bed can reach 120C, so most PLA and ABS plastics are printable with this printer.

Check out reviews and prices of the FlashForge Creator on

The Creator has a few improvements over the Makerbot Replicator. For starters the screen is larger and brighter, and the buttons are more tactile. There are no LEDs like in the Makerbot, and the electronics board has high-quality components that will prevent overheating or shorts.

Buttons are separate and tactile, providing better feedback when pressed

No LEDs helps prevent electrical shorts down the road

Screen is bigger and brighter than a Makerbot

Screen: viewing angle is not so good from above; you need to bend down to get a better view. Also has a slow refresh rate, so dont try to rush through the menus.

Reported less user friendly than a Makerbot

Replacement parts can be hard to find

Some reports of the bed not staying level for long.

The HICTOP Prusa i3 is an affordable kit-build printer based off the popular Prusa i3 frame. This printer wont be ready out of the box, but if you are a fan of building sets this is certainly a printer to consider. The Prusa i3 is a sturdy design and HICTOPs acrylic frame is easier to use than most DIY kits threaded rod frames; it also means the printer is lightweight at only 8kg.

Check out reviews and prices of the HICTOP Prusa i3 on

Once fully assembled, the Prusa i3 offers reliable and accurate printing. This printer can also be upgraded to use two extruders if you buy the parts; the control board has room for the extra extruder.

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Which nozzle size should I choose when buying a 3D printer? – Quora

Which nozzle size should I choose when buying a 3D printer?

, former Retired cheesemaker (among many other things) (1970-1985)

Most low-cost machines come with a 0.4mm nozzle simply because it gives the least trouble while still allowing decent resolution.

The fact that youre asking this question suggests that youre not ready for the complications of a 0.2mm nozzle which will block really easily on anything other that the very highest-quality filament or even on poorly chosen print settings.

KISS is the watchword when starting in this fascinating and exciting world, leave 0.2mm for [much] later!

Related QuestionsMore Answers Below

How do I choose the nozzle material for my 3D printer?

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, Built my first Prusa 8 years ago. Have designed my own Delta and CoreXY Repraps

My 200mm machines are .4mm, except for one I keep at .25mm, for high-resolution prints. This difference in print quality is noticable, but very rarely worth the difference in time and strength. I havent printed anything for myself on the .25 in a long time I maintain it for customers whore willing to pay for the additional detail.

.25 prints take three times as long as .4, minimum – . I normally print .2mm layers on my .4mm nozzle, which isnt possible on .25 – the highest layer that produces good results is .15. So right away, you have 25% more layers, and 25% more time. Then remember that your noodle is smaller, too, so you need more of them – especially if you want a reasonably strong part. Printers print mostly hollow, with 1mm thick perimeter walls – 2 or 3 passes for .4, 4 or 5 for .25. So each layer takes longer. Finally, youre extruding under higher pressure, and with less material – to get good inter-layer adhesion, you need to slow down the printer to have even reasonably strong parts. Generally, if a project needs the .25mm nozzle, it doesnt need to have strength, so I skimp on perimeters and infill to get parts out faster.

My larger machines use .6 and .8mm nozzles, so that I can print larger things in a reasonable amount of time. You can still print thin layers with large nozzles, the noticable differences are in the corners, and in small features; you can also print obnoxiously thick layers, which give you extremely strong parts in no time at all.

For reference, the ridges on your fingerprints are .2mm apart (ish).

Nozzle size depends on what you are printing & what accuracy you want. For example, if you wish to print a model with intricate design then you should a 0.2 mm nozzle as it gives higher resolution. Disadvantages of using smaller sized nozzle is that print time is more and nozzle clogging happens more often. Using a higher diameter nozzle decreases the print time but can only be used to print simple designs

, likes 3-D printing. A lot. Seriously.

It really depends on what you are trying to print and the speed. Usually for prototyping, you would use a .4 mm for the sake of time, but for the final prototype, you would usually use a .2 since it is more detailed. 0.3 mm is the most versatile of them all, since it does the job without mess or problems, all in a smooth timely manner

, Brand Strategist/Social Media Badass

To my knowledge, a nozzle of a smaller size naturally givessmaller details. So, for instance, even though a 0.4 mm nozzle can achieve a finer level of details than 0.4 mm a 0.3 mm nozzle would produce visible improvements.

If you also want to take a look at the current pricing when buying a 3D printer, feel free to check out my3D printer guide for 2016.

, Ive used a Cubify CubePro for real engineering design

It depends on what you are printing (obviously). Smaller nozzle = higher resolution/smaller minimum feature size but slower print time, and vice versa. 3D printing is already ghastly slow so you need to consider this resolution-time trade-off carefully for your application. One sized does NOT fit all.

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Still have a question? Ask your own!

How do I choose the nozzle material for my 3D printer?

What is the best 3D printer to buy in India?

Should I build or buy my first 3D printer?

Do 3D printers also help us with 3D designs?

Should I buy a CNC router or a 3D printer?

Can 3D printers be used to make metal hardware?

Where can I buy the 3D sublimation printer?