Hello, in this instruction, I will show you how to make a 3D-Printer for less than 60€ (maybe the cheapest in the world)
Im 16 Years old and I made everything by myself.
This 3D-Printer, works with the cheapest motors on the market (28Byj-48), for the electronics I use the Ramps 1.4 . It also has an all metal hotend for around 5€.
Update:27.05.2016: Added new Files for Nema 17 Motors (Step 13)
Now You can purchase all the 3D-Printed Parts on my Website:
-2x GT2 Pulley + 1m GT2 BeltAliexpress -3.33€
-1x Arduino Mega 2560 + Ramps 1.4 + 4x A4988Aliexpress 16.87€
-1x Nema 17 (I found my Motor in a old desktop printer, which I found on the scrapyard)
Please download the latest files fromThingiverse
1x Bowden Extruder by benni (You can download the Files at the bottom of this step)
You can purchase all the 3D-Printed Parts on my Website:
To change the 28BYJ-48 from unipolar to bipolar, you need to open the blue plastic case.
After that cut the the connection and desolder the red wire (see pictures).
Then solder the wires in this order:
After this hack, you can connect these motors directly to Ramps 1.4.
At first, you need to glue the wood plates together.
After that, place the printed parts Motor , Z-Motor on the wood plates.
Then you screw the printed parts down.
After that you put the motor in it, then the LM8UU.
For the motor, you put the pulley on it and connect the 624zz bearings.
For the LM8UU, you use some zip ties.
Then you put the two 17,5cm 8mm smooth rods in it.
At last you assemble the belt to the Y-ends and mount the endstop.
– connect the motor, like you see on the pictures
– thighten the belt and mount the endstop.
– connect the hotend with two M3x25 Screws + Nuts
To assemble the Z-Axis, you need to:
Put the LM8UU into the X-Carriage + X-Ends
Then put the X-Ends + X-carriage with the 17.5cm smooth rods (X-Axis) and 21cm smooth rods (Z-Axis) together
After that you screw the threaded rod with the motor together.
You drill four 3mm holes in to the 20x13cm wood plate.
After that you screw four M3x25 screws in it.
Connect the electronic, like you see on the picture.
Here is the latest Firmware for the Cherry 3D-Printer.
Upload the pre-configurated firmware to your arduino mega 2560
Then open Repetier Host, go to the top left corner, open configurations and then you can load the Eeprom file with all the important parameters
If you have some basic parameters to change (steps per mm, feedrate, acceleration…), open your Repetierhost, and go to Configuration — Eeprom
For other more advanced settings, please visit theOnline Config Tool from Repetier
After some calibration, I have printed a good 1x1x1cm calibration cube.
During the calibration, I found out, that when the motors get too hot, I have extremly layershifting.
So you need to set the A4988 to 1/16 microstepping and adjust the current, to a minimum.
Also play a little bit with the backlash in the repetier-firmware.
More pictures from print coming soon 🙂
I made some new parts for the X and Y Axis, that you can easily attach Nema 17 Motors to your Cherry-Printer
For the Z-Axis, please use the files fromCrimsoRowho made a great job 🙂
You can download the files for X and Y below.
Sorry for my bad English. Do you have the .slt file of type Lead Screw Nut Brass Nut (Diameter: 8mm) that join the X-Axis (X-End.stl) with the Threaded Rod? I cant seen to find it!
For those types of rod I recommend printing a z-wobble addon…this way the z rod only lifts the X carraige and is not physically connected to the mechanism…it is allowed to float on the smoothrods independent of the z rods, which means if z rods are not perfectly straight it wont push/pull the x carraige sideways screwing up the prints
Can any one help me for printing objects i will pay for that.
i am from india if any one done or can print this objects please give me replay.
Finally made it!!! Took me 6 months with all the stuff in my life but finally made it.
Im using a probe for the z axis cause my bed isnt that flat. Also made the axes a bit longer and yet with everything I get 100/150/100 volume. Made the adjustments for a marlin version… if anyone needs it let me know. Also Im working with slic3r and still fiddling with the settings but the result so far isnt that bad. 🙂
Thank you Vulcaman for posting this Instructable!
Hello guyz, does Download PDF include extra files or steps? I mean do i need that or this page concludes everything for construction?
Where is STL file of this part? please ((
can you please suggest power supply rating V? A?
I have found one massive issue with your pieces on Thingiverse. Have you ever heard of TOLERANCE? The pieces you have designed for this project have almost zero tolerance. This is a huge flaw since the majority of people who would want to make this design dont have great printers. Even on a good printer, doing 0.2 mm layer height is not feasible since the tolerance level is so perfectly fitted to the pieces that have to go inside of it that the tolerance at 0.2 is not good enough. If you were to take the existing pieces, and make the tolerance just a bit better, im sure it would make it much easier for all of the people who want to make this prionter to actually make it.
About to start the printing process, have to wait 13-40 Days for all the parts to arrive from China, Sending my thanks all the way from Australia for sharing this with the world!
Majority of parts printed, Some curling quite a bit however not affecting how the printer is assembled. Will post photos in the coming days. Also ordered some longer linear rails that have given me some extra length for all three axis.
Hi ,I would like to know if this model can be applied on scale of 15x15x15, thanks in advance.
I tried putting them on the y axis and they seem to shift out of the 624 bearings…
I tried tensing it a bit and it seems to help but now the motor shaft is a bit bent… if I release the tension it goes back to the original position…. can anyone help me with this?
I have communication problems only when the extruder is heating. It makes that the printing stops and the printer remains frozen. I need turn off, unplug the USB cable and restart the Repetier Host software…
When I tick the Dry Run option in Repetier Host and the printer works fine for hours. But when I print normally with the extruder heater I have communication problems and the printer finally stops.
Any idea about what can be the problem?
Hi Vulcaman and many rhanks for this instructable
Im actually building my own cherry printer and have a question about the endstops. Do i have to set them NC or NO ?
Also, about the unipolar to bipolar trick, for the 28BYJ-48
So i desoldered the red wire; but the other cable seems to be in a different order from the pictures here
the order in your picture is : blue.pink.orange.yellow directly at the exit of the blue casing
the order in my motors is : pink blue yellow orange
So i assume that your blue is my pink, your pink is my blue and so on…
then if i want to connect the ramp board such as your blue–yellow–orange–pink code; then i have to set mine as pink-orange-yellow-blue
before doing stuff with it i would like to try them out, is there an easy way using the ramp and arduino to test the motors to see if they are well set ,
I hope you figured it out by now…. and since no one answered…. Im facing the same problem…. Id like to know what you found out about the colors on the motor.
Set it to whatever you want, then adjust in firmware.
I made it special thanks to vulcaman
where did you get part ,that connects Z-motor with threaded rod ?
I made it myself u can try a 5 mm 5 mm coupler
when i move axis everything is ok but when i printing from SD cart only Z moving self
Hi i made it but cannot run 28byj in 1/16 microstepping ,i have placed jumper to 3rd connector but motors keep squeaking and not moving
hello you use drive ? (Pololu A4988, DRV8825, DRV8824, DRV4834)There is not enough power ?
you can test motherbord With this program
Can you also send me a more detailed layout of the electronics because I dont quite understand where certain electronics go.
How fast can this printer go if you use Nema 17s rather than 28byj-48 motors?
Hi all. First of all; great project. I am very new to this and had some quetions. Mainly what is the purpose of the nema 17 stepper? Does it feed the print medium? my second query is about the stepper motor hack, is this a necessary step as I may wish to reuse them in another project. Thirdly, for the PSU any recommendations?
Thanks to etetans answer, I could make some progress but there is still a little step to do in order to print correctly my first piece.
When I start printing a piece, no problem ! Everything seems working well… but after few minutes, the extrudder motor skids on the filament. Nothing else goes out from the extruder. The extruder nozzle is blocked.
So, I bought new extruder nozzles (0.6mm instead of 0.3mm). But same results after a little more time.
I use 1.75mm PLA filament heated up to 210C. (enclosed you can find temperature curves and extruder EEPROM parameters, problem came at 52minutes).
Does anybody have the same issue ? Any solutions to fix it ?
Would anybody be interesting in purchasing the 3d printed parts if I were to print them out? I am willing to but only if there is some demand to do so. I would sell all the parts for about $20-$25 CAD and sell them on ebay. Reply to this comment if you are interested
Please do, I dont have a 3D printer and really want to build this project.
Could you post the link if you are going to sell the parts
What printer would you print it on, what filament would you use?
Its one i built out of aluminum. Honestly great quality. Id print it using 3DSolutech PLA (in my opinion it is way better than hatchbox) at 0.2 mm layer height. I have purple, cyan and black filament right now
which power supply do you recomend, and it will help if you post a link to order the itam, thanks alot
Hi I am collecting money to buy all parts requiered to build Cherry 3D Printer but i dont have 3D Printer myself. Can i use wood pieces as replacement of plastic parts?
You make them out of wood and then if you want, print them with the printer you just made
Hi etetan I have the same problem as you had could you tell me how u solved it ? the motors are not moving in any axis I checked the connection thermistors baud rate 115200 decreased the steps per mm but the motor is not moving
Look at the comments above. Several people here made the genuine plastic parts entirely from wood. Its seems to be efficient.
Firstly, thank you Vulcaman for this tuto, you rules !
Secondly, I am making my own one following your instructions. Everything is connected and I could test every component individually (motors X/Y/Zs/extruder, Endstops, extruder, temperature probe, …). But now, when I test all the components connected at their right place (with the test commands in the repeiter sw), the extruder motor doesnt work : no move, no vibration, no noise, nothing…
I use the EEPROM config given in the tuto without major modification, I tested the A4988 (OK) and the motor (OK). I also tried to adjust the current of the A4988 and to modify the micro-stepping : Still not working (no move, no vib, nothing…)
By the way, when I try to turn the rotor of this motor, it is a bit harder than when the motor is not powered, so I dont think that is a power supply issue.
Does anybody have the same issue ? Any solutions ?
Hey, so the problem is most likely the fact that the extruder stepper will not move unless the hot end is heated. If you want to make sure the extruder works, heat the hot end to the temperature you intend to print on (for PLA aprox. 210 degrees Celsius) and then you can test it. This is just a safety feature built into most 3d printer firmwares so that the extruder is not trying to feed filament when it cant actually extrude it.
I have the same problem Ethan I uploaded the firmware but eprom is grayed in repetier the motors are not moving the extruder is connected as well as the thermistor
I will test it and maybe print my first piece soon !
Hi, can you send me the size of your wood board that you are using? like where to cut it.
First, Thanks Vulcaman for this project ….. Im buildim my very first 3D printer …
Second, Ive some questions, please be patience … 😉
What is the distance between the edge and the supports of the motors X? (blue)
What is the distance between the supports of the X motors and the central support? (Red)
The nuts holding the motors should screw on the underside, right?
The rotor should I be at the absolute center, I guess (green)
1.- Under the pololus there are 3 pins, what is the exact order in which they need to be connected? (0, 1, 2, 3, …)
2.- What is the order in which you connected your engines? Blue cable the first by the right or left? My engines have a different order (except red in the center …)
You do not know what a 28 byj 48 after hack angle step or steps per revolution thank you.
The X and Y are working, only for the Y I have an issue with the endstop I it keept on moving even if the endstop led illuminaties to indicatie that the carrage has reached the end.
The major problem is however with the z and the extruder stepper motors.
The z-axis I could get moving for a while when using the 3 jumper to have it run in 1/16 mode. However after a while no movement anymore ????
The Extruder stepper is true drama it vibrates (gets worse when increasing the voltage on the stepper driver pots) or I get it moving but then it jumps steps all the time. I wired stepper and stepper drivers on other positions (X and Y) to verify if the stepper or the driver are fine and they are. When pluggen in on X or Y all is fine.
I tried adjusting the voltage on the stepper divers setting it to 0,5-0,6 volt but this is not improving, on low voltage no movement the high voltage results in skipping of steps and overheating.
Started fiddeling with some of the EEPROM settings but honestly I have no clue what I need to do.
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