Strooder Turns Cheap Plastic Pellets Into 3D Printer Filament

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Strooder Turns Cheap Plastic Pellets Into 3D Printer Filament

Heres another project with the worthy ultimate aim of repurposing household plastic waste as useful 3D filament for making new stuff with your home 3D printer.

TheStrooder currently in prototype form as it raises crowdfunds onKickstarter follows in the footsteps of theFilabotwe wrote about in early 2013.

Both the Strooder and the Filabot are screw feed mechanism plastic repurposing machines designed to gobble plastic pellets and spit them back out as filament for use in a 3D printer. But the Filabots rather hefty price-tag has been squeezed to something a lot more affordable by Strooder.

So, while the Filabot costs between $900 and $750 today, Strooder is being offered to Kickstarter backers for around $335. Some very early backers were even lucky enough to snap one up for just $250. Albeit, theyre buying the promise of a finished product at this point, based on the current Kickstarter prototype (finished product is due to ship to backers starting from this September).

Strooder has already passed its Kickstarter funding goal, though, raising 20,000 in less than 11 hours on the site. So its on the way from prototype to production. And there are still 29 days left of the funding campaign to run.

While Strooders makers, a U.K. startup called OmniDynamics, are focusing initially on selling plastic pellets so people can make their own filament using the extruder, they point out that failed prints and wasted filament can also be fed back into the Strooder to be remade as new filament provided it is cut up into small enough bits.

To facilitate plastic recycling, they say they hope to produce a grinder to make it easier to chop up and repurpose old bits of plastic as new filament. And thats really the holy grail of 3D printing: DIY manufacturing that can turn household plastic waste into useful new stuff, without that waste needing to leave your home to be carted off to a gigantic recycling plant.

In the meanwhile, while they work on making plastic recycling via Strooder easier, they point out that buying plastic pellets to feed into Strooder is a lot cheaper (circa 5x) than buying actual 3D printing filament making the machine useful from a money-saving point of view.

Another area of focus for Strooders makers is the ability to produce different filament colours by mixing different ratios of pellets. If they raise enough on Kickstarter they note they may add a web interface allowing pellet buyers to select the particular colour blend of filament theyre after and then be pointed to the particular pellets they need to buy to achieve it.

The Strooder can extrude ABS and PLA plastic, with the team aiming to expand the range of the plastics capable of being processed in future (with additional possibilities including PP, PET, HDPE, HIPS, PE). There are currently three different nozzle sizes to produce the right gauge filament for different 3D printers.

The Strooder also includes a small colour touchscreen display to improve ease of use hence the teams talk of the device being consumer orientated.

Backers of the Strooder can expect their machine to ship in September or October, assuming there are no delays.

On the filament quality point, which can be a problem with DIY filament, Strooders makers claim they have been able to produce bubble free filament and to have used it to produce 3D printed items without problems, including the below calibration cube:

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Da Vinci The cheapest 3D printer (video

The first printers with inkjet technology were worth a fortune, but eventually were improving their methods of manufacture and their numbers into a relatively affordable option. Today we can say something similar of 3D printers, and anyone looking for an economic model to get your feet wet should look closer to the printer XYZprinting Da Vinci Jr., whose price does not exceed 350 euros.

We all dream of the day when a 3D printer is as common as a traditional printer, and that day is approaching. Thanks to the work of those pioneers who decided on their own to build the first printers, and the interests of certain companies interested in bringing this technology to the general market, the cost of 3D printers continue to fall. In fact, it is perfectly valid to say that it is cheaper to enter the world of 3D printing to virtual reality, at least as regards the hardware involved. How economical can be a 3D printer? Personally I am convinced that they have not yet found their floor, but if you want to satisfy your curiosity, a good starting point is the Da Vinci Jr. XYZprinting printer.

This 3D printer was designed so that your experience is as close as possible to the concept of Plug and Play but if youve never had contact with something like the Da Vinci Jr., we recommend visiting the official channel XYZprinting on YouTube and see some of his videos, which include details like changing the coil, calibrate the X axis, and clean the extruder die, among other things. The printer has a small LCD screen on the front that presents all relevant to the state of the print data, and also incorporates a slot compatible with SD cards, so it does not need to be connected to a computer to function. Print volume is 15 by 15 by 15 centimeters, while the resolution of the layers is between 100 and 400 microns.

The XYZprinting Da Vinci Jr. is a very interesting alternative aimed at beginners, however, there are one or two points to consider. First, the filament coils are proprietary, a strategy that many companies have decided to take to ensure the consistency of prints, and obviously get an extra profit. And secondly, all those who have done work with this printer recommend some kind of adhesive on its base, which immobilizes the printed object. Price wise, how sound 348 euros and coins? The printer includes filament, and all the necessary software, assuming you want to connect it to your computer.

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This is the cheapest 3D printer money can buy

Following the success ofthe $199 Micro 3D printer on Kickstarterthe project topped its $50,000 funding goal by $3,351,000 a new, even more affordable 3D printer project has just started raising money onIndiegogo. Called the New Matter MOD-t, the 3D printer costs just $149 for the first 500 buyers, which is $100 less than its future commercial price, and will ship in April 2015, assuming the company can raise the $375,000 it needs to build it.

In addition to the printer, the company is working with design company frog, which will help it create various tools and apps that will improve the overall 3D printing experience of the end-user. The company will also offer a store front for designers, who will be able to sell their 3D creations.

3D printing should be as easy as how we create and communicate, the company wrote on Indiegogo. Thats why New Matter is more than just a printer. Its an end-to-end 3D printing system, including our breakthrough MOD-t 3D printer, complimentary software, and a store full of cool 3D-printable designs.

With 36 days left on its campaign, the New Matter team has already raised more than $11,000 in pledges. Interested backers can help the project with pledges ranging from $5 to $2,490, although in order to get the New Matter MOD-t printer theyll have to pledge $149, not including shipping costs.

A video detailing this new3D printingproject, as well as a comparison chart that shows the difference between New Matter MOD-t and other affordable printers follow below.

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Building the cheapest possible Prusa i3 MK2

What is the cheapest possible, real 3D printer you can buy without making one compromise after the other? Thats the question were asking by building aPrusa i3 MK2-style 3D printer that comes with most of the important features of the original one from Josef Prusa and requires a bit more work for sourcing and building the machine, but most importantly, were going to build it only with the most affordable set of parts.

This page will serve as a hub for part lists and build guides as the project moves along! All build videos and the accompanying project videos have been organized into aneat playlist!

Each of these parts were picked for a reason be it because they are better than the alternatives, or, as expected, simply cost less than anything else. You can find the full explanation and the accompanying video on its own page, but here are the lists of parts weve covered so far!

Update: Thx to the hint from FB User David Kiddell we now know about this better Mk2 Extruder Design from Geoff Sim onThingiverse.

The frame is a fairly standard i3 type you could go with  a kit or make it yourself. The cutting template is attached at the bottom of the page, a .dxf file for CNC routing or lasercutting can be found onPrusas github!

The fasteners have been adapted to work with a thicker frame and to make use of the alternative components used in this build. If you dont want to cut the frame yourself , you can alsobuy one!

Optional: Thinner material (10mm or 3/8) for bed carriage

Locknut, alternatively jam two regular nuts or use threadlock

alternatively slim nuts for aesthetics

alternatively slim nuts for aesthetics

Can be replaced by fender washers with new printed part

Substitute the parts linked below for compatibility with the components listed here

Whats listed here is the way Im building this printer, an even cheaper option would be to go with IGUS bushings and generic 8mm smooth rods!

8mm smooth rods, 320m, 330 or 350mm, 370mm

GT2-2M 6mm belt (often just called GT2) (set with pulleys)

GT2-2M 16T pulleys, 5mm bore (set with belt)

Most of the printed parts are the exact ones from the MK2, however you dont need all of them and a few have been modified to make them work with the cheaper components. Where possible, they should still be compatible with the original parts.

To get them printed, try3DHubs(Ive got afew printers listed, too :-), a localFabLabor Makerspace or convince a friend to print them for you!

These are fromPrusaResearchs Github page

Also based on the original MK2 files, but modified for the parts suggested for this build. These parts are attached at the bottom of this page!

With the standard and modified parts, you should be able to build a 3D printer capable of printing its own upgrades. The following parts are non-essential addons,like an LCD mountor bed probe protector. While these can be a starting point, there are plenty of alternative parts and upgrades available onThingiverseandYoumagine!

Stay tuned as we move on with the build of the super-cheap Prusa i3 MK2. This page will get updated as progress is made!

Complete set of printed parts (including individual parts listed below)

Easily printable Prusa i3 (MK2) frame. No brace. 370mm wide and tall (check your print scale!)

Originally made from 6mm aluminum, but also works for wooden frames. From: , licensed GPL v3

Updated extruder idler design with printed bearing rod and integrated bearing shoulders. Fully featured replacement and usable with the Original MK2 design!

Original X-motor end with a mounting point for the PCB endstop

Modified design to allow use of longer (350mm) smooth rods for the Y-axis. Use these corners in the rear of the machine and let the rods overhang.

Original X-motor end with a mounting point for the PCB endstop

M5 nut holder compatible with the original Prusa i3 MK2 parts.

Taggedbuildloge3dextruderGuidesProjectPrusa

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Makibox vs Buccaneer Cheapest 3D Printers on the Market

This entry was posted by Bill Decker on November 27, 2013 at 8:56 pm

TheMakibox A6 HTis a new $300 3D printer available to regular consumers, set to compete with the recently funded on KickstarterBuccaneerthat goes for $347 ($247 for the first 350 buyers) plus shipping (which is as expensive as $100 for those not in the United States).

Below, the makers of Buccaneer explain its simplicity and ease of use as well as what made them decide to create it.

The Makibox A6 LT is also available for $200 but has fewer 3D printing capabilities. Below is a video of the Makiboxs creator telling the story of Makible and why Makibox is a good choice for regular consumers interested in 3D printing.

[] The Makibox A6 HT is a new $300 3D printer available to regular consumers, set to compete with the recently funded on Kickstarter Buccaneer that goes for $247 plus shipping (which is as expensive as $100 for those not in the United States). []

[] The Makibox A6 HT is a new $300 3D printer available to regular consumers, set to compete with the recently funded on Kickstarter Buccaneer that goes for $247 plus shipping (which is as expensive as $100 for those not in the United States).

The Makibox comes fully assembled from and has a much larger printing surface. Also the Bucaneer is listed at $347 not $247. Is this a typo or are they on sale? Both seem like awesome products and I love the ease of use concepts.

The first 350 buyers had the $247 price, then the price moved up to $347. The article has been updated to reflect that information.

Thank you for bringing it to my attention with your comment!

You must belogged into post a comment.

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Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

Hello, in this instruction, I will show you how to make a 3D-Printer for less than 60€ (maybe the cheapest in the world)

Im 16 Years old and I made everything by myself.

This 3D-Printer, works with the cheapest motors on the market (28Byj-48), for the electronics I use the Ramps 1.4 . It also has an all metal hotend for around 5€.

Update:27.05.2016: Added new Files for Nema 17 Motors (Step 13)

Now You can purchase all the 3D-Printed Parts on my Website:

-2x GT2 Pulley + 1m GT2 BeltAliexpress -3.33€

-1x Arduino Mega 2560 + Ramps 1.4 + 4x A4988Aliexpress 16.87€

-1x Nema 17 (I found my Motor in a old desktop printer, which I found on the scrapyard)

Please download the latest files fromThingiverse

1x Bowden Extruder by benni (You can download the Files at the bottom of this step)

You can purchase all the 3D-Printed Parts on my Website:

To change the 28BYJ-48 from unipolar to bipolar, you need to open the blue plastic case.

After that cut the the connection and desolder the red wire (see pictures).

Then solder the wires in this order:

After this hack, you can connect these motors directly to Ramps 1.4.

At first, you need to glue the wood plates together.

After that, place the printed parts Motor , Z-Motor on the wood plates.

Then you screw the printed parts down.

After that you put the motor in it, then the LM8UU.

For the motor, you put the pulley on it and connect the 624zz bearings.

For the LM8UU, you use some zip ties.

Then you put the two 17,5cm 8mm smooth rods in it.

At last you assemble the belt to the Y-ends and mount the endstop.

– connect the motor, like you see on the pictures

– thighten the belt and mount the endstop.

– connect the hotend with two M3x25 Screws + Nuts

To assemble the Z-Axis, you need to:

Put the LM8UU into the X-Carriage + X-Ends

Then put the X-Ends + X-carriage with the 17.5cm smooth rods (X-Axis) and 21cm smooth rods (Z-Axis) together

After that you screw the threaded rod with the motor together.

You drill four 3mm holes in to the 20x13cm wood plate.

After that you screw four M3x25 screws in it.

Connect the electronic, like you see on the picture.

Here is the latest Firmware for the Cherry 3D-Printer.

Upload the pre-configurated firmware to your arduino mega 2560

Then open Repetier Host, go to the top left corner, open configurations and then you can load the Eeprom file with all the important parameters

If you have some basic parameters to change (steps per mm, feedrate, acceleration…), open your Repetierhost, and go to Configuration — Eeprom

For other more advanced settings, please visit theOnline Config Tool from Repetier

After some calibration, I have printed a good 1x1x1cm calibration cube.

During the calibration, I found out, that when the motors get too hot, I have extremly layershifting.

So you need to set the A4988 to 1/16 microstepping and adjust the current, to a minimum.

Also play a little bit with the backlash in the repetier-firmware.

More pictures from print coming soon 🙂

I made some new parts for the X and Y Axis, that you can easily attach Nema 17 Motors to your Cherry-Printer

For the Z-Axis, please use the files fromCrimsoRowho made a great job 🙂

You can download the files for X and Y below.

Sorry for my bad English. Do you have the .slt file of type Lead Screw Nut Brass Nut (Diameter: 8mm) that join the X-Axis (X-End.stl) with the Threaded Rod? I cant seen to find it!

For those types of rod I recommend printing a z-wobble addon…this way the z rod only lifts the X carraige and is not physically connected to the mechanism…it is allowed to float on the smoothrods independent of the z rods, which means if z rods are not perfectly straight it wont push/pull the x carraige sideways screwing up the prints

Can any one help me for printing objects i will pay for that.

i am from india if any one done or can print this objects please give me replay.

Finally made it!!! Took me 6 months with all the stuff in my life but finally made it.

Im using a probe for the z axis cause my bed isnt that flat. Also made the axes a bit longer and yet with everything I get 100/150/100 volume. Made the adjustments for a marlin version… if anyone needs it let me know. Also Im working with slic3r and still fiddling with the settings but the result so far isnt that bad. 🙂

Thank you Vulcaman for posting this Instructable!

Hello guyz, does Download PDF include extra files or steps? I mean do i need that or this page concludes everything for construction?

Where is STL file of this part? please ((

can you please suggest power supply rating V? A?

I have found one massive issue with your pieces on Thingiverse. Have you ever heard of TOLERANCE? The pieces you have designed for this project have almost zero tolerance. This is a huge flaw since the majority of people who would want to make this design dont have great printers. Even on a good printer, doing 0.2 mm layer height is not feasible since the tolerance level is so perfectly fitted to the pieces that have to go inside of it that the tolerance at 0.2 is not good enough. If you were to take the existing pieces, and make the tolerance just a bit better, im sure it would make it much easier for all of the people who want to make this prionter to actually make it.

About to start the printing process, have to wait 13-40 Days for all the parts to arrive from China, Sending my thanks all the way from Australia for sharing this with the world!

Majority of parts printed, Some curling quite a bit however not affecting how the printer is assembled. Will post photos in the coming days. Also ordered some longer linear rails that have given me some extra length for all three axis.

Hi ,I would like to know if this model can be applied on scale of 15x15x15, thanks in advance.

I tried putting them on the y axis and they seem to shift out of the 624 bearings…

I tried tensing it a bit and it seems to help but now the motor shaft is a bit bent… if I release the tension it goes back to the original position…. can anyone help me with this?

I have communication problems only when the extruder is heating. It makes that the printing stops and the printer remains frozen. I need turn off, unplug the USB cable and restart the Repetier Host software…

When I tick the Dry Run option in Repetier Host and the printer works fine for hours. But when I print normally with the extruder heater I have communication problems and the printer finally stops.

Any idea about what can be the problem?

Hi Vulcaman and many rhanks for this instructable

Im actually building my own cherry printer and have a question about the endstops. Do i have to set them NC or NO ?

Also, about the unipolar to bipolar trick, for the 28BYJ-48

So i desoldered the red wire; but the other cable seems to be in a different order from the pictures here

the order in your picture is : blue.pink.orange.yellow directly at the exit of the blue casing

the order in my motors is : pink blue yellow orange

So i assume that your blue is my pink, your pink is my blue and so on…

then if i want to connect the ramp board such as your blue–yellow–orange–pink code; then i have to set mine as pink-orange-yellow-blue

before doing stuff with it i would like to try them out, is there an easy way using the ramp and arduino to test the motors to see if they are well set ,

I hope you figured it out by now…. and since no one answered…. Im facing the same problem…. Id like to know what you found out about the colors on the motor.

Set it to whatever you want, then adjust in firmware.

I made it special thanks to vulcaman

where did you get part ,that connects Z-motor with threaded rod ?

I made it myself u can try a 5 mm 5 mm coupler

when i move axis everything is ok but when i printing from SD cart only Z moving self

Hi i made it but cannot run 28byj in 1/16 microstepping ,i have placed jumper to 3rd connector but motors keep squeaking and not moving

hello you use drive ? (Pololu A4988, DRV8825, DRV8824, DRV4834)There is not enough power ?

you can test motherbord With this program

Can you also send me a more detailed layout of the electronics because I dont quite understand where certain electronics go.

How fast can this printer go if you use Nema 17s rather than 28byj-48 motors?

Hi all. First of all; great project. I am very new to this and had some quetions. Mainly what is the purpose of the nema 17 stepper? Does it feed the print medium? my second query is about the stepper motor hack, is this a necessary step as I may wish to reuse them in another project. Thirdly, for the PSU any recommendations?

Thanks to etetans answer, I could make some progress but there is still a little step to do in order to print correctly my first piece.

When I start printing a piece, no problem ! Everything seems working well… but after few minutes, the extrudder motor skids on the filament. Nothing else goes out from the extruder. The extruder nozzle is blocked.

So, I bought new extruder nozzles (0.6mm instead of 0.3mm). But same results after a little more time.

I use 1.75mm PLA filament heated up to 210C. (enclosed you can find temperature curves and extruder EEPROM parameters, problem came at 52minutes).

Does anybody have the same issue ? Any solutions to fix it ?

Would anybody be interesting in purchasing the 3d printed parts if I were to print them out? I am willing to but only if there is some demand to do so. I would sell all the parts for about $20-$25 CAD and sell them on ebay. Reply to this comment if you are interested

Please do, I dont have a 3D printer and really want to build this project.

Could you post the link if you are going to sell the parts

What printer would you print it on, what filament would you use?

Its one i built out of aluminum. Honestly great quality. Id print it using 3DSolutech PLA (in my opinion it is way better than hatchbox) at 0.2 mm layer height. I have purple, cyan and black filament right now

which power supply do you recomend, and it will help if you post a link to order the itam, thanks alot

Hi I am collecting money to buy all parts requiered to build Cherry 3D Printer but i dont have 3D Printer myself. Can i use wood pieces as replacement of plastic parts?

You make them out of wood and then if you want, print them with the printer you just made

Hi etetan I have the same problem as you had could you tell me how u solved it ? the motors are not moving in any axis I checked the connection thermistors baud rate 115200 decreased the steps per mm but the motor is not moving

Look at the comments above. Several people here made the genuine plastic parts entirely from wood. Its seems to be efficient.

Firstly, thank you Vulcaman for this tuto, you rules !

Secondly, I am making my own one following your instructions. Everything is connected and I could test every component individually (motors X/Y/Zs/extruder, Endstops, extruder, temperature probe, …). But now, when I test all the components connected at their right place (with the test commands in the repeiter sw), the extruder motor doesnt work : no move, no vibration, no noise, nothing…

I use the EEPROM config given in the tuto without major modification, I tested the A4988 (OK) and the motor (OK). I also tried to adjust the current of the A4988 and to modify the micro-stepping : Still not working (no move, no vib, nothing…)

By the way, when I try to turn the rotor of this motor, it is a bit harder than when the motor is not powered, so I dont think that is a power supply issue.

Does anybody have the same issue ? Any solutions ?

Hey, so the problem is most likely the fact that the extruder stepper will not move unless the hot end is heated. If you want to make sure the extruder works, heat the hot end to the temperature you intend to print on (for PLA aprox. 210 degrees Celsius) and then you can test it. This is just a safety feature built into most 3d printer firmwares so that the extruder is not trying to feed filament when it cant actually extrude it.

I have the same problem Ethan I uploaded the firmware but eprom is grayed in repetier the motors are not moving the extruder is connected as well as the thermistor

I will test it and maybe print my first piece soon !

Hi, can you send me the size of your wood board that you are using? like where to cut it.

First, Thanks Vulcaman for this project ….. Im buildim my very first 3D printer …

Second, Ive some questions, please be patience … 😉

What is the distance between the edge and the supports of the motors X? (blue)

What is the distance between the supports of the X motors and the central support? (Red)

The nuts holding the motors should screw on the underside, right?

The rotor should I be at the absolute center, I guess (green)

1.- Under the pololus there are 3 pins, what is the exact order in which they need to be connected? (0, 1, 2, 3, …)

2.- What is the order in which you connected your engines? Blue cable the first by the right or left? My engines have a different order (except red in the center …)

You do not know what a 28 byj 48 after hack angle step or steps per revolution thank you.

The X and Y are working, only for the Y I have an issue with the endstop I it keept on moving even if the endstop led illuminaties to indicatie that the carrage has reached the end.

The major problem is however with the z and the extruder stepper motors.

The z-axis I could get moving for a while when using the 3 jumper to have it run in 1/16 mode. However after a while no movement anymore ????

The Extruder stepper is true drama it vibrates (gets worse when increasing the voltage on the stepper driver pots) or I get it moving but then it jumps steps all the time. I wired stepper and stepper drivers on other positions (X and Y) to verify if the stepper or the driver are fine and they are. When pluggen in on X or Y all is fine.

I tried adjusting the voltage on the stepper divers setting it to 0,5-0,6 volt but this is not improving, on low voltage no movement the high voltage results in skipping of steps and overheating.

Started fiddeling with some of the EEPROM settings but honestly I have no clue what I need to do.

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Meet ONO the worlds cheapest 3D Printers

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Meet ONO the worlds cheapest 3D Printers

Meet ONO the worlds cheapest 3D Printers

3D Printers are now available in all shapes and sizes but have you ever wondered which one is the smallest 3D Printer available out there?

We have the answer for you, and its called ONO 3D Printer.

Ono is a Cell phone powered 3d printer that was first seen at the World Maker Faire in 2015 but little information about it has been around since then. According to the recent update on the companys website, the product should be finally ready for sale in a months time.

ONO is a DLP based 3d printer which uses smartphones screen to project slices of the design on the resin tank where the photoactive resin solidifies one layer at a time.

Its a wonderful little 3D printer that costs just $99 (Thankfully the price has not increased ever since it was announced. The build volume for this printer is 7.6×12.7x5cm and the print quality largely depends on the screen resolution of your cell phone.

Z resolution:Layers as thin as 0.036 mm (or 0.12 mm in Quick Print mode)

X-Y resolution:Up to 42 micron resolution, depending on the phone screen resolution

Auto-leveling: Sensors reset the Z height before every print

Removable resin tank and build plate:Makes removing the part and cleaning the printer easy

Reusable printing film:Film can be used for up to 10 prints in the same location

Quiet:The low noise mechanism allows printing even at night

Portable:Lightweight and small, it is easy to take with you

Adaptable:USB charging cable connects to any USB charger, from wall plugs at home to rechargeable battery packs for off-grid use

Sturdy:The body is made of durable technopolymers designed for strength and durability

Low maintenance:Long-lasting actuators are self-lubricating, requiring little maintenance

The Resins that work as the raw material for ONO 3d printer costs $15 for a 100ML bottle and are available in a variety of colours. These resins have properties like ABS, Wax, and PMMA which is kind of opaque. The company also sells a resin which cures to make products which are semi flexible in nature

Using ONO 3d printers is literally a Childs play, all you need to do is download the companys app on your Smartphone and connect your 3D Printer via the wire supplied along with the 3D Printer. The printer may be small in size but can produce 3d prints which have a print resolution of 42 microns; however it largely depends on which phone you use and what its screen resolution is

The App which runs ONO can access your designs stored online through cloud capability, or could just chose the design from thingiverse. The App is compatible with Android, windows as well as IOS platforms making it work universally.

Although ONO 3D printer works with any Smartphone but the screen size cannot be more than 5.8 the printer is super silent as well. The printer weights just 1.7lb making it ultra portable

Currently the company is busy sending printers to their kickstarter backers but soon it would be available for purchase to general public as well. We look forward to lay our hands on this little monster and post a review as and when possible

Tags:ONO 3D PrinterONOResinDLP 3D Printer

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