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The 3D Builder app has model visualization options and editing capabilities, and can print to a 3D printer that has a Windows-compatible printer driver. The app can be used as a reference and a test tool for 3D-editing, and for validating 3MF files that you create.

3D Printing with Windows 10 and i.materialise

See how to use i.materialise online 3D printing service with 3D Builder in Windows 10. Now every Windows 10 user has access to a 3D printer.

3D Builder is installed by default on computers running Windows 10. For Windows 8.1 you can download the app.

Learn how to use the 3D Builder app to create 3D models and send them to a 3D printer.

Find tutorials, demos, projects and events that cover building physical objects from digital 3D models on a PC running Windows 8.1 or Windows 10.

The following resources can help you start developing drivers for printing to a 3D printer, get involved with the community that supports using 3D printing, or find a maker of a 3D printer.

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3D-printed Lightsaber Design Philosophy and Printing Tips

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For May the 4th, I designed a 3D printed lightsaber in commemoration of Star Wars day in collaboration with Ultimaker. There were many other designs out there, but none that I was really happy with. The examples I saw were mostly over simplified, impossible to print without supports, or difficult to assemble. I knew I wanted something more faithful to the original prop with better surface quality. So I set out to build my favorite design from the series.

I ended up making two versions of the Lightsaber, a4 piece versionwhich stresses ease of printing and assembly, and a 14 piece version that makes no compromise on surface quality. The 4 piece model has been available on YouMagine since May the Fourth, but now (July 2nd), we are also releasing the14 piece modelon YouMagine.

In this guest blog I will explore some of the design nuances, by comparing the two design philosophies represented by the simple and complex versions of the lightsaber model.

This is an example of how printing direction could potentially limit your designs, but could be overcome by printing in multiple parts. The one on the left is printed face down as one piece, and the one on the right printed in 3 parts. In order to successfully print the left version, many of the interior angles need to be made more ob- tuse, deviating from the original prop. Even with those modification, we have some surface imperfections. No such problem on the 14 piece to the right.

Next we have the button details. The buttons can hold much higher levels of detail if printed in a different direction than the clamp. The 4 piece compromises on those details for ease of assembly. But we can clearly see the missing details and overhang artifacts.

In order for the buttons to stay in place without glue, I designed this core. Which keeps everything tight on the insides once the clamp is tensioned down since the clamp is hollow. There is another reason for this piece, it can be removed if you want to add that special something to your lightsaber.

I came across many examples in my research where people built crystal chambers and lighting modules inside the body. I wanted the complex version of this to be able to accept that kind of modification if so desired. The thing about 3D printing is, not only can you design the outsides, but the insides just as well. You can fit a relatively large flashlight in the hilt with room to spare so most laser modules should fit for a stunning effect.

Seams are an important part of how mechanical objects appear, but they also present the problem of creating overhangs.

Making the cap a separate piece not only gives us the proper seam on the 14 piece design, but also makes a good place to replace batteries should you want to install a lighting module.

Another example of the importance of seams, separating the piece into multiple parts allow the grenade piece to be slotted inside the clamp for a cleaner, more integrated look on the 14 piece design (right).

10 extra parts for just that little bit of accuracy? Well, theres a couple more things to consider. If you want an accurate replica, it cant stay grey and plastic… If you plan to paint the model, it is far less time consuming to paint parts already separated by their material so theres no need for masking tape. The result is a much more efficient workflow and a more professional finish.

Here the parts are partially assembled into their material groups, and airbrushed. No masking tape required.

One final consideration. After the 14 piece design was done, it was a relatively easy to simplify it down to a 4 piece design. So now you have both. One that emphasizes precision, and one for ease of use. the beauty of 3D prototyping, -quick changes, immediate results.

Want to see the differences for yourself? Heres a few tips & instructions on how to build your own 14 piece lightsaber for the detail oriented. You can download it fromYouMagine.

The Clamp is the most complicated part. The final pin will contend with a lot of friction but thats whats going to hold the whole thing together. You may need to shave off a few millimeters off part 8 or 9 to ensure a good fit.

Printing InstructionsEverything is designed mostly hollow where possible, so print with a low temperature, (filament dependent) and slow speed for best results (~40mm/s).

Brim and support is not needed for any of the parts and will interfere with fitting. This example was printed at 0.15 mm layer height.

Once you have assembled it and everything fits, you can break it up into these parts and paint them individu- ally. You need to ensure fitting before painting because you dont want to have to sand or file parts to fit after the fragile paint coat is on, itll ruin your finish.

For people who arent familiar with 3D printing, they associate 3D printers with simplistic plasticy table pieces and vases, but it is capable of so much more. The Ultimaker has been a seamless translator from the virtual world to the physical for me, it is truly an empowering device.

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Dentists will soon be able to 3D print you a new tooth in minutes

Watching advancements in 3D printing technology can seem like watching science fictionimpressive, but ultimately out of reach and arguably bearing little relevance in daily life.

But with the announcement of abreakthrough technologythat accelerates 3D printing speeds by a factor of up to 100, you may soon encounter a 3D printer in the most banal of everyday places: your dentists office.

This means that dentists can now print a tooth in 6.5 minutes, explained Joseph DeSimone, the CEO of the 3D printing companyCarbon3Dand a professor of chemistry at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, at theTED Conferencein Vancouver last week.

The 3D printing innovation is cutting edge, but the ability to reproduce a tooth while you wait in the dental chair is actually not new. Its been around for about 30 years, explainsDr. ShardeHarvey,a New York City-based dentist who been using the method calledCEREC(Chairside Economical Restoration of Esthetic Ceramics) since 2005.

Developed in the University of Zurich, CEREC is more akin to computer-assisted sculpture than printing. While 3D printing creates an object one micro layer at a time, CEREC carves out or mills a new tooth from a piece of porcelain aided by scanners and 3D modeling software.

The race is on to come up with faster, feasible 3D printing techniques.Both methods allow dental practitioners to replace teeth, crowns, veneers, and inlays in a single sitting. The advantage of 3D printing over milling is that the process is better able to custom manufacture an object with intricate detailsthink about a tooths irregular grooves, crannies, and valleys. The problem with 3D printing was that it used to take a very long time.

Now the race is on to come up with faster, feasible 3D printing techniques. Barely a week afterCarbon3Ds unveiling, the Australian companyGizmo 3D announcedthat theyre working on a super fast SLA [stereolithography] style 3D printer that challenges Carbon3Ds print speeds.

The prize in this race is the lucrative market fordental and medical prosthetics. The competition too is paving the way for 3D printing to finally become a standard tool for a range of health practitioners. Clinical trials to test the viability of makingperfectly-fitting 3D printed stentsare already in the workswith the hope that soon this could even be done right in the surgery room, during an operation.

Making a maker How to turn a 2D image into a 3D printable object

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Weve all heard the computer guy clich: One person has special computer knowledge, and suddenly they are asked to fix every single problem with their extended social circles computers.

Soon after I started tinkering with the, I sort of became that person, but for 3D printing. Luckily, no one I know has a 3D printer yet, so its more been people asking me to print them things. I dont mind it. I like hearing the interesting applications people come up with (best so far: a cup-like instrument), and its great knowing more people are being exposed to the technology.

It also gives me a good excuse to practice making unexpected things. Recently, a family member made a special request for aDistrict 12 badgefor part of a Hunger Games costume. This was ahead of the debut of the latest movie in the trilogy, which came out today.

Just in case, I did a quick search onThingiverseto make sure a 3D badge design did not already exist. It didnt, which is unsurprising considering Hunger Games paraphernalia is likely protected.

So I would have to design the badge myself. I found plenty of 2D drawings of the badge online, which I wondered if I could turn into a 3D object and print.

Shapeways offersa very handy servicewhere they can turn a 2D imageeven a drawinginto a 3D print for you. But you cant export the file after you go from 2D to 3D, which means you need to print through Shapeways or you are out of luck.

I read that123D Design, a computer aided design program I have been working with, can turn an SVG vector file into a 3D shape. I usedone of the manyslightly shady sites available online to turn my JPG into an SVG and then loaded that into 123D.

It worked! The 2D image appeared. I used the pull tool to grab it and drag up its walls, turning it into a virtual 3D object

From the white space in the image, you can see that the black parts, which are what would be printed, arent all connected. So the badge needed to printed on a solid layer of plastic in order to stay together. I created two solid disks and slid them under the badge design to give it a solid bottom.

Then it was time to print. I loaded the file into Slic3r and then Pronterface. Slic3r noted I had some holes in my design, but it seemed like it had exported a file as usual, so I decided to go ahead and ignore the warning.

Then something went wrong it finished the print job after only completing the bottom solid layer. I couldnt figure out what was wrong so I turned to a Noisebridger (did I mention its embarrassing to explain you are working on something Hunger Games-related to a full-blown hacker?). He took a look at the file and said I had some holes in the print, which prevented the printer from continuing. He fixed it up for me in a software program called Blender.

I started reprinting. It took a long timenearly two hoursto finish because of the fine details. Heres a video of the final touches being printed:

Note the stringiness within the open spaces. Thats a result of working with an older printer. You can clean it up with a little bit of nail polish remover.

Overall, it was a fairly simple process. The hole problem was troublesome though, as I would have failed on my own without help at that step. As Imentioned a couple weeks ago, this whole process is so reliant on software. Im eager to learn it, but theres a lot to know.

This print job also exposed a lot of legal gray areas with which 3D printing is dealing. It was easy for me to make my own replica of a District 12 badge. But thats something I could also print on a 2D printer and glue onto a badge. Would the entertainment industry really care I went ahead and made it 3D?

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Hey! Great write up how on earth did you import a SVG file into 123D? lol!

Ive been google-ing and reading as much as possible and cannot get my vectors in there. Ive getting so close, but still cant quite figure it out.

Also how did you create the circles underneath? Any tips on a tutorial to learn how to use the software with precision? Thanks a ton!!

To (maybe) answer your legal question: that more than likely constitutes as fair use. You can also say its fan art. And since no one is making money from this no one is going to care either.

Blender is a really great (free) program for making 3D things (to state it simply). I highly recommend it if you do 3D printing. Some people say it has a steep learning curve. My advice to avoid that as much as possible is to watch tutorials and read books. In fact you should watch a tutorial before you even download it * true story *

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3D Printing in Medicine

Preoperative planning and tracheal stent design in thoracic surgery: a primer for the 2017 Radiological Society of North America (RSNA) hands-on course in 3D printing

Leonid Chepelev, Carolina Souza, Waleed Althobaity, Olivier Miguel, Satheesh Krishna, Ekin Akyuz, Taryn Hodgdon, Carlos Torres, Nicole Wake, Amy Alexander, Elizabeth George, Anji Tang, Peter Liacouras, Jane Matsumoto, Jonathan Morris, Andy Christensen

Matthew Marks, Amy Alexander, Joseph Matsumoto, Jane Matsumoto, Jonathan Morris, Ronald Petersen, Clifford Jack Jr., Tatsuya Oishi and David Jones

Christopher T. Wilke, Mohamed Zaid, Caroline Chung, Clifton D. Fuller, Abdallah S. R. Mohamed, Heath Skinner, Jack Phan, G. Brandon Gunn, William H. Morrison, Adam S. Garden, Steven J. Frank, David I. Rosenthal, Mark S. Chambers and Eugene J. Koay

Yan-Jun Chen, Hui Lin, Xiaodong Zhang, Wenhua Huang, Lin Shi and Defeng Wang

Guk Bae Kim, Jung-Hoon Park, Ho-Young Song, Namkug Kim, Hyun Kyung Song, Min Tae Kim, Kun Yung Kim, Jiaywei Tsauo, Eun Jung Jun, Do Hoon Kim and Gin Hyug Lee

Matthew Di Prima, James Coburn, David Hwang, Jennifer Kelly, Akm Khairuzzaman and Laura Ricles

Andreas A. Giannopoulos, Leonid Chepelev, Adnan Sheikh, Aili Wang, Wilfred Dang, Ekin Akyuz, Chris Hong, Nicole Wake, Todd Pietila, Philip B. Dydynski, Dimitrios Mitsouras and Frank J. Rybicki

Shi-Joon Yoo, Omar Thabit, Eul Kyung Kim, Haruki Ide, Deane Yim, Anreea Dragulescu, Mike Seed, Lars Grosse-Wortmann and Glen van Arsdell

Shuai Leng, Kiaran McGee, Jonathan Morris, Amy Alexander, Joel Kuhlmann, Thomas Vrieze, Cynthia H. McCollough and Jane Matsumoto

publishes 3D printing innovation that impact medicine. Authors can communicate and share Standard Tessellation Language (STL) and related files via the journal. In addition to publishing techniques and trails that will advance medicine with 3D printing, the journal covers how to papers to provide a forum for translating applied imaging science.

Speed14 days from submission to first decision54 days from acceptance to publicationUsage13,080 downloads1868.5 Usage Factor

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2018 BioMed Central Ltd unless otherwise stated. Part ofSpringer Nature.

ZBrush 3D Printing

Learn the most in-demand business, tech and creative skills from industry experts.

Prepare your models for 3D printing with ZBrush, the popular program for 3D modeling and digital sculpting. Learn how to measure your models with real world units, so everything prints at the right size; save on material costs by hollowing out your models; and make sure your colors print true. Author/artist/3D aficionado Ryan Kittleson also shares some advanced tips and tricks for getting the best results from your particular printer.

This course was created by Ryan Kittleson. Were honored to host this training in our library.InstructorRyan KittlesonProduction Manager at Unique BoardLearn MoreShow lessView on LinkedIn

Ryan Kittleson is a CG artist who teaches 3D modeling, sculpting, and printing with 3ds Max and ZBrush.

Ryan has loved combining art with technology since he was a young child with a VIC-20 and enjoying visually rich images by artists like Dali and Escher. He taught himself Photoshop as a teen and then 3ds Max in his early 20s. He worked as a game artist in Raleigh, North Carolina for a while before returning to school and completing a bachelors of fine arts degree in illustration from East Carolina University, all the while practicing the art of digital graphics with personal and freelance projects. He then moved to Orlando, Florida where he taught character modeling at Full Sail University for 6 years. Ryan currently lives in New York City where he works as a freelance CG artist.

– [Voiceover] Hi, Im Ryan Kittleson and Id like to welcome you to 3D Printing with Zbrush. In this course Ill show you how to use Zbrush to prepare models for 3D printing on a variety of printers. Zbrush has been a standard for 3D modeling and digital sculpture for a while now. But its also being used more and more often for 3D printing. First, Im going to talk about how to measure your models with real world units so that everything comes out the right size. Then Ill get into ways to save on material costs by making models hollow. After that, Ill show you how to get your painted colors and texture maps to print out on color 3D printers. Finally, Ill cover some advanced tips and tricks to help you get the best possible results. Ive been using Zbrush for 3D printing for a few years now and its still my go-to software for getting sculptural models ready for printing, especially when it comes to printing in color. Theres a lot of really exciting stuff to cover so lets get

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What you should know before watching

1. Preparing Models for 3D Printing

1. Preparing Models for 3D Printing

Deciding on hollow or solid 3D prints

Reducing polygon count with Decimation Master

3. Making Hollow Models with Panel Loops

3. Making Hollow Models with Panel Loops

Creating wall thickness with Panel Loops

4. Hollowing out a Model with Dynamesh Shelling

4. Hollowing out a Model with Dynamesh Shelling

Learn the most in-demand business, tech and creative skills from industry experts.

3D Printing with PETG Tips and Tricks

Why is the AXIOM the best 3D printer?

Why Choose Airwolf 3D Printers for Education?

3D Printing Tips & TricksBlogMaterials and Filaments

3D Printing with PETG: Tips and Tricks

DecThe countdown to Christmas continues

with our 25 Days of Materials, up next is PETG


Tis the season to be jolly, join the Wolfpack in a fun25 Days of Materials3D printing countdown to Christmas and learn about 25 different materials and their unique properties! The objects to be 3D printed are part of theAdvent Calendar/Christmas Treedesigned bypleppik.  Everyday we will be unveiling a new part of the Advent Calendar and talking about a different special 3D printing material.

filament is an extra tough 3D print material. This is an extreme high strength filament and can achieve very sturdy and strong prints. It has very low shrinkage, making this perfect for larger flat surfaces. PETG is a perfect alternative toABSandPLA, offering higher strength, lower shrinkage, and a smoother finish.

is short for polyethylene terephthalate glycol-modified, and is a transparent type of

PETG is the perfect filament to combine strength and ductility, which is why its used in so many mechanical parts and robotics.

It has great chemical resistance with good water, acidic and alkalic resistance.

PETG is also makes a great material for artistic prints like bracelet, rings, collars etc.. You can achieve a nice shiny transparent/see thru look which reflects the light nicely.

PETG has a higher melting temperature  than PLA so we recommend setting your hot end temperature between 240 and 260C.

ALWAYS use a fan with PETG as it tends to cool the filament in the hot end and help with retractions.

Keep your retraction speed slow at 30mm/s or less.

Set your bed temperature at 100C .

by painting on cold glass with long strokes.

Wolfbite is a solution specially engineered to bond PETG and

plastic parts directly to a heated glass 3D printing surface without lifting. Once the 3D printed parts have cooled, they will dismount from the printing surface with minimal effort, leaving a clean and smooth bottom surface.

PETGis used in a variety of signage, packaging, industrial and medical applications:

PETG is FDA compliant, so it can be used in medical and food applications. In medical applications, it stands up to radiation and chemical sterilization techniques without changing color.


Are you ready to start 3D Printing with PETG? Awesome! You can buy some PETG filament here 

Below is a chart listing the 3D printing filaments we will be discussing over the next25 Days of Materials.

Did you like this article about 3D Printing withPETGand are you interested in learning more about 3D printing materials? Then sign up for our newsletter to receive your daily dose of 3D printing material knowledge happening only this month!

This entry was posted in3D Printing Tips & TricksBlogMaterials and Filamentsand tagged25 Days of MaterialsPETG.

3D Printing with PC-ABS: Tips and Tricks

3D Printing with PLA: Tips and Tricks

3D Printing with PETG: Tips and Tricks

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3D printing for Engineers/Architects

Downloads of STL Models and 3D Printer stuff

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We LOVE seeing what you create with your Airwolf 3D printer! Tag us or include the hashtag Airwolf3D and show off what youre making!

Airwolf 3D is committed to relentless innovation and the perfection of an ecosystem of products that makes 3D printing a seamless experience.Read more.

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Why is the AXIOM the best 3D printer?

Why Choose Airwolf 3D Printers for Education?

Start a Project

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Ideas and inspiration can come from anywhere. You may have an idea for a new product or maybe there is a personalized gift you would like to create. We are here to help. We work with everything from napkin sketches to 3D architectural files to create 3D printed items for our clients.

The C3DP platform is designed to make the full lifecycle of a 3D printed project as simple and painfree as possible.

Tips for Modeling for 3D Printing with Cinema 4D

This is an older, archived post. Comments have been closed.

Although Ive just recently entered the world of 3D Printing Ive been doing 3D design for over 10 years mainly for animation and visual effects projects. My tool of choice for this is Maxons excellentCinema 4Dsoftware. Im using the latest R15 version and have the Broadcast edition. But the steps below can be done in any edition.

Because Ive learned that designing objects for 3D printing is different than designing for screen output I decided to do a quick tutorial with some basic tips for optimizing models for 3D printing within C4D.

For this example Ive made a quick model of a robot by just moving an scaling a sphere primitive and four cilinders. No fancy modeling here I must admit, but lets pretend I the clock is ticking.

The first thing that becomes important when designing objects for physical output is size. Go to Edit Project Setting and set the Project Scale to millimeters.

A problem with C4D is that when selecting multiple objects or a group of objects it stops showing the total size.

A workaround for the size indication problem is adding your objects to a Connect Object. As you can see the total size of the object is now displayed. Its important to set the Phong Mode in the Connect Object to manual. Ill explain this in the next step.

Phong Shading is used to make objects look smooth on screen. The sphere above looks smooth but its in fact made out square polygons as you can see when looking at the edges. To disable this you must select the Phong Tags of all your objects and delete them.

Now you see the actual polygons. A 3D printer doesnt do shading so your print will look more like this than the perfect smooth image above.

You can add more polygons to you objects by selecting them and increasing the amount of Sements. I changed it from 24 to 96. The value depends on the size you want to print the object at and the print quality of your printer.

If you want to make a small print on a FDM-type 3D Printer that melts plastic filament with an extruder tiny polygons wont be visible so these settings will be sufficient. But Ive seen prints from a laser-based Form 1 (stereolitography) printer and those make even tiny polygons visible.

Now you can scale down the object by selecting the Scale tool and dragging somewhere on the screen. Remember that most slicing programs that are used to prepare the model for actual printing will import the model at this size but can also re-scale it. Its good practice to put the bottom of your print on the floor (Y = 0mm) but if you dont the slicer software can do this too.

When youre happy with the size you can hit the letter O on your keyboard to zoom in on the object again.

Now we use a little trick inside C4D to take a look inside the object. Go to Edit Project Settings and scroll down to View Clipping. Depending on what youre making you can experiment with increasing this setting and zoom in and out of your object to get the desired cross section view. As you can see the Connect Object connects everything but doesnt delete the parts of the cilinders inside of the sphere. This is no problem for screen output but will cause problems when slicing or 3D printing this object.

If you just have 2 objects that you want to merge into a single object while removing the intersecting polygons, you can put your objects inside Boole Object and set the Boolean Type to A union B. But as you can see that is limited to just the two first objects in the list (the sphere and one of the leg cilinders in this case). Bad Luck or?

Luckily theres a wonderful free plug-in for C4D called Magic Merge. Its developed by Nitro4D an can be downloadedhere.

Unzip the File, put the new folder in maxon/cinema4d/plugins and quit C4D (dont forget to save your design!). Re-open C4D and your design.

Now move the objects out of the Connect Objects and delete that. Select all separate objects go to Plugins in the top menu and select Magic Merge.

Voila! A Perfectly Merged objects thats completely hollow on the inside!

This is a good time disable the cross section view by changing the View Clipping back to something more useful (I prefer Tiny for everything) via Edit Project Settings.

And select .STL the standard format used in 3D printing.

Make sure the export Scale is set to 1 if you want the object at the size you designed it.

Now you can send your file to a 3D Printing Service or import it in your favorite Slicing software. I prefer Simplify3D of which I wrote areviewrecently.

Entrepreneur at the intersection of Creativity Technology 3D Expert.

Excellent tutorial!. Ive been using AutoCAD only in 3D Printing. Im on the process of exploring things and I think I got to try Cinema4D. Thanks.

Thanks for the tips! Helps a lot! Happy 3D Printing!

Muchas gracias, lei tanto por ah, pero en tu post encontr la solucin

Great tutorial! One question: How does it come that your sphere has some sort of thickness? If I do your tutorial and make the sphere + cilinders there are really thin and you can see theyre empty inside using View Clipping. Is that a problem for 3D printing? Thanks!

I think the thickness is only an optical effect of theView Clippingsetting because the sphere is not perfectly half-cutted.

Your objects will be printed in the inside too (or with a print schema), this will result in an excessive waste of materials.

You can put a smaller sphere inside the bigger one (Eg: BiggerSphere Ø = 3cm SmallerSphere Ø = 2.7cm) and then put them inside a bolean. Then the object will be ptinted with a 3mm thickness.

Not sure if the Magic Merge plugin has extra features. But if you nest multiple layers or objects into a null object and then add that to a boole, it counts as only one object. So you could have left your sphere as the first object under the boole, and then added all the cylinders to a null and placed that as the second object in your boole. This way your geometry is still all edible if you wanted to make design changes.

Lovely article and nice reply Brandon, thanks both

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